IamA public defender who moved halfway around the world to work in one of the tiniest and newest countries on Earth, Palau! AMA!

Did you see a job advertised for Palau and decide "why not?" or were you looking for something different already?

Well, sort of both. I was doing private criminal defense work in Texas and I HATED running my own business and having to charge for representation. I saw the Palau job advertised on a list-serv for defense lawyers one day and decided to apply, almost as a joke. I really didn't think I would get it, and kind of forgot I'd even applied. Five months later they emailed me and asked me if I was interested in a phone interview. At that moment, I decided that I wasn't going to agonize about this, I was going to do the phone interview, and if they offered me the job, I was just going to take it. And then I did the phone interview and they offered me the job about ten minutes into the call and it just didn't even seem real. Still doesn't.

EDIT: When I say I applied almost as a joke, I don't mean that I didn't take the job seriously. The possibility just seemed so far out. There are a lot of reasons Palau, especially, seemed appealing to me. Indigence here is a totally different ballgame from indigence in the States, and it's a pretty humbling experience.

What are the big differences in law there compared to the US?

Whats the local food like?

Palau actually used to be part of the United States, and a large part of Palauan law is based on US law. Actually, that's one of the reasons I can practice here without having to take another bar exam. That said, there are still a lot of differences in the law. Abortion is a crime here, though I have not heard of anyone being prosecuted for it. DUI's are very, very serious here and jail time, even on a first offense, is mandatory. It's strict even compared to Texas.

The local food is....a mixed bag. Since it's an island in the middle of nowhere, meat and fresh veggies are hard to come by. Fish and rice are popular, and so is Spam. There are a lot of Japanese and Philippine influences- sugary tomato sauce, for example, and lots of fresh sushi. There are three small grocery stores here, and a handful of decent-ish restaurants. Most of the food is just ok, but the bakeries here are aaaamazing. One of the local specialties is "fruit bat soup." It's basically a whole fruit bat covered in coconut milk. I have not partaken.

If you've ever tried quail, fruit bat is similar.

I read an article about how several years ago it was noticed that there's a hugely disproportionate number of neurological problems and Parkinson's disease in Micronesia, and after studying it, the people who study these things figured out that it has to do with eating whole fruit bats. The bats eat a certain type of grain or something that's a neurotoxin to humans, and then when the bats are cooked and eaten whole, the residual grain in their bellies leaches out into the broth/meat/whatever and can cause problems. I'm sure it takes more than eating it a few times to develop a disease, but that's my excuse for not trying them. Call me a chicken. Also, they look like rats and they're served whole and unskinned/unbutchered. I just...can't. Hats off to you for being so adventurous, though!

http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/eid/article/18/7/11-1654_article

" Fruit bats are the presumptive reservoir hosts of Ebola viruses (EBOVs) (genus Ebolavirus, family Filoviridae). When transmitted to humans and nonhuman primates, EBOVs can cause hemorrhagic fevers with high case-fatality rates."

Oh good. More reasons not to eat fruit bats! Thanks! :)

And kudos to you for the move! Palau is awesome and I'm jealous. That kind move takes guts.

Have you gotten to do any touristy things, like swim with dolphins or visit the WWII ruins?

My best friend was here for a month when I first got here, and we did do some touristy stuff. We went on a pretty cool tour of Jellyfish lake and the Milky Way, definitely want to go out to Pelilieu where a lot of the WWII stuff is- there was a huge battle there, and I hear it's just nuts. Haven't gotten to swim with the dolphins yet, but have seen some crazy stuff just snorkeling! Trying to pace out the expensive stuff.

Spam musubi is awesome. You need to give it a try. Maybe not a lot and probably not with a Big Gulp.

I actually broke down and tried it the other day. It was significantly better than I thought it would be. Definitely edible. Still not on my list of top favorite foods. Would have rather had the Big Gulp. ;)

Hi, interesting country.

1. Do you have air conditioning?
2. If an American wanted to go to Palau and work, maybe sell drinks on the beaches or teach scuba diving, what are the Visa requirements?

1. I live in a house with two bedrooms (it's ridiculously big for my needs, but it's been nice because I have had a friend visit, and my mom is coming in October for a few weeks). I have window units in each of the bedrooms. Most of the housing has window units. I don't think anyplace has central air. Most of the time, I just keep my windows to the main living area/kitchen open and I think that's what everyone else does, too. It's fairly breezy here, and though it's constantly about 80 degrees, you really do get used to it. Also, I'm from Texas, so the heat and humidity here are not bad!

2. You can come here without a visa for up to a year, I think. I'm not sure if you could get a work permit to sell drinks on the beach, nor do I think you'd make enough to survive(!) but there are definitely a bunch of dive shops that hire expats to teach diving and could get you a visa. Bureaucracy here is surprisingly efficient. For example, it took me about ten minutes to apply for and receive my Palauan social security card. My visa was handled by my assistant, but I have a feeling it was also pretty easy. If you do come, let me know! I will show you around!

Are people there nice ?

Yes. Actually, they're very nice, generally speaking. They are very friendly and love to laugh. Everyone is related to each other here, and there's a general attitude of everything being everyone's business, but it's not rude, it's just cultural. For example, my assistant will say things like, "I saw you walking down the main road yesterday at 6:00, where were you going?"

So where were you going?

To buy an internet card. :) Even though I have internet set up in my house, you still have to buy access cards to be able to use it. At first I hated it, but it keeps me from being online all the time (except for right now doing this AMA). It's $10 for an 8 hour card.

I'm a Texas law student who has a high interest in practicing abroad. Do you have any advice for me? How was the transition from federal/state law to Palau law because I can't image them having an O'Connor's you can whip out.

This opportunity kind of just fell in my lap, I wasn't really particularly looking for it, though now I am pretty interested in continuing to do work abroad. The advice I've gotten is to learn some local languages of places you'd like to go, though I don't speak Palauan and there's not a Rosetta Stone for it. Like I said in another answer, it's pretty hard to find places that you can apply abroad that will give you reciprocity with your law license, but places that used to be US territories are probably a good start, like here and the Virgin Islands and such. I know there are law clerk positions here, too, with the Supreme Court of Palau. It seems like a lot of those lawyers did pretty prestigious Federal clerkships first, and also many of them went to big-name schools. I didn't.

The transition was not as bad as I thought. They just introduced a new penal code here, and it's based on the model penal code, so it's pretty familiar looking. Like anywhere, you just have to sit down and read it. Because the internet is spotty, they actually have a disk of Palauan case law that you can search offline, kind of like Pacific Islands lexis. It's pretty easy to use, and if there's not on-point case law, you can use US Federal case law. The biggest adjustment is probably not having juries to think about!

They don't have the right to a jury trial? That seems odd for a country based off the US system.

They do, but only for offenses that carry 12 years or more potential punishment. I thought it was odd, too, but it actually makes sense here. Everyone is related/knows everyone else, including the defendant, the prosecutor, the judge, etc... so being able to pick a jury is almost impossible.

What kind of people do you usually prosecute/defend? Are typical crimes white-collar (Fraud, etc.), or do they tend to be assault related charges?

I am a public defender, so I only defend people. :) There are two lawyers in my office- me and my boss. There are about ten prosecutors, so we're a bit outnumbered. My boss handles most of the serious felonies, and I handle juvenile cases, misdemeanors, and some of the less serious felonies. It's a lot of cases, but not nearly the overload that I understand a lot of public defenders in the States have. There are not a lot of terribly violent crimes here, guns are illegal, and most of the assaults seem to be either teenagers fighting or domestic disputes. I handle a LOT of DUI's and a lot of cases involving minors drinking alcohol. There are a few thefts, but not a whole lot. Most of my clients want to plead guilty, apologize, and accept their punishment, which is a HUGE change from my clients in the States. In fact, sometimes I have to really encourage my clients to go to trial because they are not guilty, or because I know the prosecutors are not going to be able to prove it at trial. Very different.

Wow, super interesting. The culture seems so different there, do you think there is more likelihood for miscarriages of justice to take place?

Is there any process to reverse a conviction?

The general process of law here is the same as it is in the States. There are appeals, and there are even presidential pardons. It's hard to say if there's more likelihood of wrongful convictions...It's just so different.

How slow is the internet to you? Is it impossible to play games, download from steam, etc?

What do you like about your new home so far?

What do you miss about being in Texas?

How does your new job pay, compared to your cost of living in Texas?

Would you send me a postcard from Palau? I collect postcards. :3

1. The internet is pretty slow, depending on where you are. Most of the time, it doesn't work at all at my office (which is in the Supreme Court building, so you'd think they could give us a little bandwidth...ugh!). At home, it's ok- it's about like dial-up. Sometimes a little faster. A friend sent me a video the other day that was 30 seconds long and it took me about 9 minutes to download it. It takes me about 4 minutes to upload a picture to my blog.

Mostly I miss people more than anything particular about Texas itself. I do miss Target. And Jack-in-the-Box. And bookstores.

The pay is surprisingly good. I make more than most of the public defenders at my level of practice that I know in the States, and they also give me a $900 a month housing allowance. Groceries are a little more expensive here than they are in Texas, but there's nothing else to really spend your money on, other than diving or touring, so it ends up being an amazing way to save money and pay down debt. I live very comfortably on about $100 a week.

Absolutely. PM me your address. :)

How's the food there? Is there a certain style? Any foods you can't find very much?

Wow. That's a low cost of living. I live off of a little less than six grand a year myself in California.

The food is pretty good. Mostly fish and rice. There are a couple of decent restaurants, and even good pizza! Well, good for Palau. :)

It's hard to find fruit and vegetables and meat that hasn't been frozen. Actually, none of the grocery stores carry fresh meat. It's weird. You walk into a grocery store here and the produce section looks really nice- then you get closer to it and realize that the apples are terribly mushy and bruised, and there's mold around the stems of all of the tomatoes. You kind of...lower your standards about things like that here.

I am also not calculating how much I spend on rent. My house is the full $900/month housing stipend that they give me.

How is the Infrastructure and the mentality of the People in yaren wehre i Suppose you live?

Also how is the mentality of the People there?

Is the any tourism?

Edit: fucking German autocorrect

There is a decent amount of tourism here, that and aid from other countries propels the economy. The infrastructure is actually pretty decent from where I sit- water is clean, electricity is reliable, but the internet is super slow! The people are very friendly and positive, there is a very laid-back idea of life here.

You've only been there two months, so did you know that your adversary there is a horrible person who tried to suppress DNA evidence to keep an innocent man in prison a little longer?

http://www.houstonchronicle.com/news/columnists/falkenberg/article/Falkenberg-5594473.php

Edit: I just skimmed your blog and I know you know. But everyone else should, too. People go to prison for victimless crimes, yet this guy keeps an innocent man in prison for 25 years through disgusting unethical behavior and lands a job in an island paradise.

I did. :) I blogged about it. He actually got here after me.

Texan here, this is a two part question.

1: How much do you miss Whataburger? 2: How much do you miss Whataburger.

Sacrilege, I know, but I'm more of a Jack-in-the-Box girl. ;)

As a guy who has also lived in Palau, Alii olei. You learning the language at all? Stop in at Emaimalei's and have some spam fried rice for me.

Ha! Small world. I tried to sign up for language lessons but the guy who teaches is trying to regroup or something, and PCC doesn't have any right now. I'm trying the best I can, but it's super hard. Emaimalei's is pretty awesome, though I'm a bigger fan of their bakery than their spam fried rice. What were you doing here?

How are women treated there? As a professional woman, do you face challenges that you didn't in Texas?

Palau has a traditionally matriarchal culture, and I have not experienced any problems with people treating me differently because I am a woman. A lot of the judges are women, too. I had more trouble in Texas, by far, than I do here.

Do all law students "make it", as in get a comfortable fulfilling job from your experience? I'm in the middle of my class academically at the University of Auckland and sometimes I get worried :(

It just depends. In my experience, people who have drive and give a shit about what they do can find fulfilling work, but sometimes it takes a bit to get on your feet. I started my own practice right out of law school, mostly doing contract work for other lawyers and through a decent amount of luck and hanging around seedy bars networking, I was able to pay my bills and work on some really interesting cases. Though there's a huge glut of lawyers right now, the work is out there (at least it was for me) if you show some pluck. I didn't try to work at a big firm or anything, though.

Few questions:

1) So why Palau? Your a lawyer which means you can pretty much move anywhere and make a living wage. Why a 3rd 2nd world country? It has got to be more than "I didn't like my job in Texas."

2) Do you miss your family and friends?

3) How long do you plan to stay?

4) Do you have a significant other? If so, what does he/she think of living in Paula? If not, do you see a lot of "dating material" there?

Thanks for doing the AMA.

1. Palau was hiring. You're right, though, it wasn't going to be just anywhere. There are relatively few places outside of the United States that I can practice without having to get different credentials- taking another bar exam or going back to school, for example. As far as the US is concerned, Texas is my heart and home, so I didn't feel the need to apply for positions somewhere else. This just came along and I thought it would be a crazy adventure. Something kind of wild. And it is. :)

2. Terribly. More than I can say.

3. Probably two years. That's how long my contract is for.

4. I do not. I got divorced about a year before I left. My ex was very controlling while we were together, and over the last several months of our marriage, he became increasingly paranoid and threatening. Even over the year we were split, I still had a lot of fear about him having a breakdown and finding me (he got hooked on meth and lost his job and his mind, and as the late, great Dr. HST says, "You can turn your back on a person, but never turn your back on a drug."). So, to be perfectly honest, that part of leaving appealed to me, too. And the whole being free to stretch my wings thing.

There is not really a dating scene here that I can discern, which is probably not bad for me, personally. I had probably made some not-awesome dating choices since I split with my ex, and it might be a good idea to do some alone-time.

Edit: misnumbered

Ahh Palau. I was almost born on Palau because my Chinese parents wanted a second child. They were going to get me an American citizenship as a loophole to the one child policy.

Anyways, what are somethings that Palau doesn't have?

Well, that's an interesting little legal loophole there. What happened instead??

Palau has most everything you could want, just some things are harder to come by. Really good cheese/ fresh dairy products. I haven't seen milk that is not sold in an aseptic container.

what is the population?

About 15 to 20k, depending on who you ask. :)

How's the bug situation there? What are you doing for fun?

Bugs are not terrible. actually. Huge spiders, though. And a good amount of mosquitoes, though Texas is worse. There are also a ton of geckos here. And ants. I am pretty laid-back about it, though. They were here first, and they will be here long after I am gone. At first it's one of those things where you think, "OMG, there are shitloads of lizards in my house. What if they touch me???" And then after about a week, you're just happily sharing your home with them and hoping they don't run across your face in your sleep and wake you up.

Snorkeling here is amazing, and there's a little park around the corner from my house where I can go anytime. I've taken a couple of tours, hit up a couple local bars, hiked around a bit, and I am reading a lot. It's not bad. I'm working quite a bit, though, so I haven't had much time to get too bored.

Sounds great except for the spiders! I'm arachnaphobic. Are they everywhere?

No, not really. I did see a HUGE one by my front door the other day that skeeved me out a bit, but I haven't seen any big ones inside (yet!).

Thanks! Thought of more questions -- with it being such a tight'knit community, are you concerned about repercussions of your job? People taking it out on you if their relatives get convicted, for example? Also, what are the common crimes there? Amd how do public defender resources stack up there compared to US? Do you habe more or less time to devote to each client? Thanks for doing this AMA btw -- very interesting!

Most people here seem to be very laid-back, and most crimes are not super serious. Actually, you are only entitled to a jury trial here if you are facing 12 years or more in prison, and there have only been THREE jury trials in all of Palauan legal history (which, to be fair, is not that long, but I come from Texas, where you have a right to a jury trial on a traffic ticket!). Much like the States, most of the cases plead out and don't end up going to trial, and it seems that most people are just really grateful for the help. The issue with it being so small, really, is that rumors can start flying really fast, so I'm trying to stay out of the gossip mill more than anything!

Most crimes here are non-violent. A lot of DUI's, kids drinking, a little vandalism, some trespassing and fighting. There are a few theft cases, mostly pretty minor, and a surprising (to me at least) amount of them have to do with people stealing betel-nuts from someone's tree. :)

The PD resources here are not terrible, though we are hugely outnumbered by the prosecutors by about five to one. We have our own investigator and two office assistants, all of whom are absolutely amazing. I am spread pretty thin, but I am able to competently do my job and feel like I am giving good representation to all my clients, which I know is not the case in some places in the US.

I loveeee betel nut. I spent some time in inland China, and it was really big there. Have you tried some? I found it to be a pretty great caffeine replacement.

I did try it! It was...probably not something I'd do again, but not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Kind of like chewing on a really fibrous jalapeno pepper with chunks of cigarettes in it. :)

Love this AMA. I just read through your blog it is superb! I noticed you didn't drink Pocari Sweat. Surprisingly, it is great.

What was the reaction of the locals around to when you moved? Did they ask lots of questions? Not want anything to do with you? Thanks :)

Awww! Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. Someone else also told me Pocari Sweat is delicious, so I am resolved to try it (and your username itself is a rousing endorsement).

The locals are really, really friendly. They have all been very welcoming and kind and they seem to be really glad I am here. To be fair, I think part of it is that I am a public defender, I may not have gotten the same welcome if I had been a prosecutor. I also live in a Palauan neighborhood, as opposed to some of the ex-pat condos that a lot of Americans here live in, and a lot of the locals have commented on how cool they think that is. My landlord and some of the other neighbors will sit on my front porch with me at night, and the older lady who lives next door brings me fresh eels and taro root concoctions from time to time. When my friend who had been here for a month left, they told him that he was a Palauan now, and that he would always have a place if he came back. It's pretty great. :)

As someone who is reading your fascinating AMA whilst suck a work on a overcast Saturday in the UK you've brought me a ray of tropical sunshine Thanks!? Is social media as pervasive in Palau as it is in other parts of the world or does the internet speed limit it's influence?

Aw! I'm glad you're entertained! I've seen my assistant on Facebook, I think probably a lot of people have it here, but I don't think anyone has internet on their phones and wi-fi is pretty limited, so I doubt people are posting with much consistency.

What is the cost of living? Food, transportation, etc

How easy would it be to find a place to rent? And how much would it cost for something basic or moderate?

Hmmm...restaurants are about the price that they were in Texas, if not a little cheaper, at least diner-y type places and noodle/burger stands, which is most of what they have here. Groceries are a bit more expensive because most everything has to be flown in. Everyone has a car, and you can find one at just about any price range. I got a 2005 Nissan March, a kind of mini bug/Fiat looking thing, for $3k. It's in good shape, looks clean and runs good, but it also has about 140k miles on it. Public transportation doesn't really exist, though there's a ferry that goes out to one of the outlying islands a few times a week, and I hear tell there's a bus, but I haven't seen it.

My office found me my house before I got here, and it is paid for by my housing stipend- $900 a month. I think there are MUCH cheaper places, though. Like I said in another answer, my house is very big and kind of on the main drag in downtown Koror, the biggest city. There are apartments here that I would feel safe living in for maybe $4-$500 a month.

What are the requirements for reciprocity? I just took a bar exam and would love to work abroad.

Reciprocity here is great. You just have to be licensed in good standing in a state in the US. But it only lasts for four years, then you have to take the Palauan bar, which I think is fairly standard- the MBE plus some Palau specific stuff.

Thanks for the response. Now for my follow-up. I'm also married. My wife is a physical therapist. Do you have any idea about the demand for that sort of position?

There is a hospital and a clinic here, though I don't know what the demand is. One of the other lawyers has a wife who is a nurse, and I know she is in talks with the hospital to work there.

I've heard places like the Phillipines that prostitution, while illegal, seems to be tolerated. Is that the same case in Palau? Do you prosecute those types of crimes?

I haven't seen a prostitution case since I've been here. It doesn't seem like it's very prevalent, though there is a super shady karaoke bar kind of on the outskirts of town that looks like it might peddle some flesh from time to time, and I'm sure it does happen. Palau is a lot smaller than the Philippines, and it doesn't really have the same "din of sin" reputation as some of the other countries around these parts. Most of the tourism is eco-tourism, SCUBA divers, or Japanese couples on their honeymoons, I don't think there's a lot of guys coming here looking for child prostitutes or anything.

Was palau where operation cartwheel and the battle of pwlwilu was fought? Dude that is going to be a killer location for history... have a great time and wear lots of sunblock

Thanks! I'm slathering it on and staying nice and pasty. And yes, it was. I can't imagine being on that island for that long with those kinds of casualties. I almost don't want to see some of it because it is so nightmarish just thinking about it.

lawyer and former peace corps volunteer here. this sounds awesome and right up my alley!

are there more opportunities in Palau? where is the best place to comb through similar international opportunities?

thanks for the AMA!

What kind of law do you practice? PM me!

Hiya, neighbor! You're not far from the Philippines, which is where I live. That's slightly related to my question, which is: how are your relations with nearby countries? Have many, like you, come over from elsewhere to work? To live? To trade? Which country does Palau interact with the most?

Palau has good relationships with other countries, it seems. There are a good amount of people here from Yap and Bangladesh, and there are a few dozen Americans, maybe more, it's hard to tell. Palau interacts a lot with the US and China and Japan, as well as the Philippines and other countries in Micronesia.

Have you been diving yet?

Not yet. I still have to get certified, and I haven't had the days off to make it happen. Soon, though! The snorkeling has been great, and I'm told the diving is like Disneyland underwater. :)

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Hey, the Caribbean is nothing to sneeze at! Sounds like a blast! :)

I haven't really been here long enough to get frustrated about anything. The lack of internet at work, when everything's on my GoogleCalendar can be kind of rough. There are some things that are different, for sure, but for the most part, they're different because Palau is different, and the things I didn't think made a lot of sense at first (like the lack of jury trials I had talked about in other answers) actually do make sense considering the way things are. Overall, Palau is very progressive.

Thanks!

How has the move been? I recently moved cross country from FL to WA and it's been a whirlwind of emotion so I imagine moving to another country in another part of the world is even more so.

It hasn't been as bad as I would have thought. I got rid of most of my stuff, and my best friend came over to help me get settled for the first month, so that was pretty great. I think it hasn't totally sunk in yet. My mom is coming for a few weeks in October and then I have more friends coming next April and next June, so I have some things to look forward to from home. :)

Thanks for sharing about this unique place. Any court reporting opportunities in Palau?

Oh, unfortunately, I don't think so. The court reporters are mostly Palauans and I think they're fully stocked. :)

As a Texan living as an Expat, I salute you from southern Mexico! (I also miss a good fat chicken fried steak and a cold Real Ale/ St Arnold... What do you miss most so far?

There is a diner here that serves passable chicken fried steak! I know! Shocking!

I do miss good beer. There is a local brewery here that is not terrible, but it's not Karbach/St.Arnold/even Shiner. I miss unfrozen meat. Chili without beans. Really good Indian and Vietnamese food. Fortunately, I'm a pretty good cook and I can make just about anything. The stores here are pretty well stocked. I miss bookstores a lot. Or just the ability to buy books cheaply. :)

Is there an expat circle in Palau for you to help you integrate? Do you know people from both the USA or other countries going there for work, such as doctors or developers? It seemed me that they were hiring overseas to improve the quality of the institutions. Do you know people on a similar situation working in other industries?

Thanks for a great AMA!

There are a good number of expats here, but I'm a bit isolated from them because my office is pretty small (just two lawyers). The court clerks who work here have more of a community, I think. I didn't know anyone coming here, actually, I had to google it when I applied because I had never even heard of Palau before!

Is it an island paradise?

Pretty much. :)

After I graduate from law school I may have to hit you up haha.

How many attorneys are in your office?

Where are they all from?

Just two- me and my boss. My boss is a native Palauan who went to law school in the States. She's amazing.