Hi :-) My name is Prudvi and I am the head scientist at DECIEM. I lead all product development and research in our lab and I’m here to answer all of your questions about everything science and skincare. Ask Me Anything!

Any future plans on having retinol (not Granactive) in something different than Squalane?

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[Love what you guys did to skincare. You literally transformed me to "skincare is all marketing" into "give me all the science behind, I love it"]

Hi! Thank you for the kind words. Not at this time, but I have some ideas... ;-)

When will the salicylic acid solution be back? I think everyone at r/skincareaddiction including me are missing it badly and I’m almost out.

I'm sorry it's taking so long :-( Salicylic acid is a well-loved ingredient and we're working on a variety of concentrations (0.5%, 1%, and 2%) to address a variety of skin types, tolerances, and improve accessibility for anyone that would like to use it. The team and I are working really hard to make sure it's available for you ASAP. Thank you for bearing with us. <3

Which DECIEM products do you use in your own skincare routine?

Hi! On an everyday basis, I use The Ordinary's Squalane Cleanser and NIOD's Survival 0. And that's my routine (with a 10-month old baby and a very busy lab life). :-)

Hi! Thank you for doing this! Do you have any idea when the Invisible UV Filters SPF 35 with antioxidants will be coming out? Feels like I've been stalking the site in hopes of it being available forever now!

May 2020 :-) Stay tuned!!!

Hi Prudvi! Long time fan here. Could you tell me a bit about the Deciem rule about not using peptides with strong antioxidants or acids. What research let to this guidance? Thanks so much for your precious time

Hi! Our rule against combining strong antioxidants only applies to our products containing copper peptides. We would not recommend combining direct acids with peptides due to the susceptibility of peptides to hydrolysis (which breaks the bonds between peptides, reducing their efficacy and making them into individual amino acids). At low pH, the peptides undergo processes such as deamidation (the removal of an amide group) and oxidation, which compromise the activity of the peptides. 

Having said that, if you have previously combined peptides with acids and have not experienced any negative side effects or discoloration, you may continue to combine the two products as so as the combination does not pose any potential harm. Our recommendations are meant to serve as a preventative measure to avoid any incompatibility between those combinations and also because skin tolerance in subjective. Hope this helps!

So would you say leaving a decent amount of time between the acid and peptide would prevent the possibility of hydrolysis, as the skin would have naturally increased it’s pH? Thanks! This is a question we get a lot on the Facebook group ❤️

Thank you for your response - this would vary between individuals. One of the key variables that hold value here are the concentrations of both the acids and the peptides. If they are kept low, a time gap of a few minutes may prevent hydrolysis. As this varies between users and the products used, the best practice would be to use them separately. We are conducting testing with our new skin pH meter and will share results as we find them. :-)

For some people (myself included), TO niacinamide+zinc is a holy grail product, for others it makes them get terrible cystic acne. What is it about the product that causes people to have such significantly different results?

Hello! Everyone's skin is different, but I'm happy to hear that it's working well for you. :-)

What is the difference between The Ordinary and all other DECIEM brands? It is much cheaper and you can see that people love it. However, can you say that it is of a less quality? Thanks a lot.

Hello! All of the brands under DECIEM have their own unique purpose and mission. The low price point of The Ordinary is not a reflection of the quality, but rather the cost that these technologies demand. The Ordinary is offering clinical skincare ingredients that have been on the market for years, sometimes decades, and this is reflected in the cost. The prices of our other lines, such as NIOD and Hylamide, reflect newer technologies and combinations of active ingredients. All products across DECIEM are priced based on the costs of the technologies in the formula. :-)

Hi! :) I travel a lot for work, if I want to put the products in tiny travel size containers, like little plastic bottles, will they have a negative interaction with the plastic (i.e. direct Acids, AHA, Retinoid, serums), or is it ok? :)

Good question! While we have only tested stability of formulas in our own packaging, it should be fine to store formulas in plastic bottles for short-term trips. That said, the majority of our packaging is carry-on friendly. Happy traveling! :-)

I am a huge fan of the Deciem products for 3 years now. Are there go to Deciem products which specially targets skin for us women in our 40's to help us with collagen production and firming of the facial skin that has lost firmness and that youthfull "plump"?

Thank you for following the team and I on this journey :-) <3 I'd recommend any one of the below:

1) The Ordinary "Buffet"

2) Hylamide SubQ Skin
3) NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1%

Wanted to say your products are amazing. As a licensed esthetician, Deciem gives a whole new meaning to taking care of one’s skin. Your products contain REAL, proven actives instead of shit like essential oils and unnecessary fillers. I recommend a lot of your products (especially the Ordinary because of price) to a lot of people. You must have a blast creating amazing things and making a difference in that lab.

Wanted to ask—how marked up in price are TO (your cheapest) products? I know they’re ethically priced and very good for their price.... I was curious to know how marked up they are compared to other skincare lines.

Hello :-) Thank you for your kind note. While I don't like to compare ourselves to other brands, we do our absolute best to ensure that we offer the most fair, honest price for our products.

Hi Prudvi! :) I am wondering about the Salicylic Acid 2% Solution from the Ordinary. I love the current formula and am wondering what the goals are of reformulating? I'm afraid of losing my magic acne-curer so I'm interested to know what problems the reformulation is targeting or what you are trying to improve! Thank you :)

Hi :-) The goal is to offer a few options for as many users as possible based on skin tolerance and experience using direct acids without losing efficacy.

Hi Prudvi! Do you guys have a tranexamic acid serum in the pipeline? I'd love a 2-5% serum (or whatever the OTC limit is in the Americas/Europe) Some of us have post acne red marks (Post Inflammatory Erythmea/PIE) that will not budge! TA is experiencing a surge in popularity but I don't know of any products on the market that contain a known percentage, which is really what we all love about DECIEM brands, transparency and efficacy! I'd also love to see a 5% EGCG serum, like I'd die and go to heaven.

Hi :-) Not at the moment, but thank you for the suggestion. I'll keep these in mind for future formulations...

Usually low prices means a lack of quality control or a lack of ethically obtained ingredients (child/slave labour ecc), how do you ensure that your products are ethically sourced and well made while keeping the famous low prices?

Hi - our prices are low because we believe it's the right thing to do. The pricing of The Ordinary (and all DECIEM brands) reflect the honest cost of the ingredients used in formulation, and is not a result of unethical practices or lack of quality control. We have 17 dedicated team members working in our Quality department and the team is very quickly expanding as we continue to expand our production and develop more products.

:-) <3 (edited for smiley and heart)

how do you decide which items to pair together for your routine? i've used a bunch of the ordinary products but never could tell i'm doing the right combo. any tips on how to approach all the options? (LOVE hemi-squalane).

Hello! It all begins with your objective - what you want to target and what your main concerns are. We offer independent, single ingredient-based solutions within The Ordinary, and more complex offerings within our other brands such as Hylamide and NIOD. Since everyone's skin is unique, our Customer Happiness team are happy to offer custom recommendations for you at DECIEM.com/contact always.

Do direct acids (lactic, glycolic) lose their efficiency over time once exposed to air? I’m currently cycling through a couple products and wonder if this is a bad idea if I’m trying to maximize product efficiency.

Thanks for doing this! I’ve been using your products for years and they have been amazing for my skin. I love the science behind your products and especially love your new recycling program :)

Hello :-) As long as they're stored properly (in a cool, dry place) and used within the period after opening suggested, they should be absolutely fine. Our stability tests actually capture the normal usage of our products (including air exposure) and their time on the shelf.

how do you decide which type of product u want to make next?

Hi! While there's no pattern for how we curate and launch new products, there are a few factors prior to launching new formulas - we learn about the market, new innovations in skincare, any gaps/trends in the market, requests from our community, and then figure out how we can do things better. ;-)

how did your career lead you to focus in skincare?

Hi :-) I come from a Pharmacy background which offered a course in Formulations which was the seed of everything. I was then interested in Pharmacology and Biochemistry which lead to my curiosity into the realm of functional formulations (AKA skincare)!

First of all, I loved every Deciem product I ever bought! Thank you so much for the hard work! My question: Are there new categories of products planned for 2020? Like something for lips or hair colour? And what about Fontaine, will there be new products in 2020?

A lot of love! ♥

Absolutely! We were just talking about it. ;-)

What happened to the products that Brandon had mentioned before his passing? I was very interested in the face cleansers for The Ordinary (I think it was a salicylic acid one) and the savon beldi that he mentioned in Morocco.

Also, when are we getting the fragrance that is in the stores? Can you tell us what it is? Or do I have to become an employee to get that info?

Thanks!

Stay tuned - we're continuing to work on everything that Brandon mentioned. :-)

When does Deciem plan to release the anti-grey hair serum? I heard it's been in the pipeline for almost 2 years now and I'm getting impatient! :)

While conventional hair dyes offer a quick solution, this formula is taking us a bit longer because it offers a functional approach to targeting the appearance grey hairs before (and after) they appear without simply covering them up. I can't wait for you to try it :-)

Hello. Why can’t we use peptides with vitamin C? What other ingredients shouldn’t be mixed with the peptides?

Hi :-) We would not recommend combining direct acids or Vitamin C with peptides because (at a low pH) the peptides undergo processes such as deamidation and oxidation, which compromise the activity of the peptides. Our recommendations are meant to serve as a preventative measure to avoid any incompatibility between those combinations (due to various concentrations and formats offered within our range) and also because skin tolerance in subjective. If you have been combining them and this has been working for you, you may continue to do so as the combination will not harm the skin.

Edited to clarify the question: With so little regulation in this industry, I am just unsure of what the heck is safe or not. I'd like to know if this company stands by its ingredients with regard to health, safety, efficacy, pollution, etc.

Some 'clean skincare' companies claim to have a list of products that they wouldn't use under any circumstances. I can't tell if it's fear-mongering, or what.

Do you have a list of ingredients that Deciem would never use? There are somethings you have in products like Polysorbates, PEGs, silicones, some fragrances, etc. that other companies avoid. Would you come out and defend these ingredients?

It's hard to sort out what is clean skincare BS, and what is science and fact-based.

Hi! Thank you for your question. I'm unclear on the "clean" messaging myself - these days, this means something different to everyone.

All DECIEM products, across all brands (including The Ordinary) are free of parabens, sulphates, mineral oil, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, animal oils, coal tar dyes, formaldehyde, mercury, phthalates, and oxybenzone. This is because we have inconclusive data regarding their safety and don't feel comfortable using them in our products.

To answer your question, there are many misunderstood ingredients and a good example is silicones. There are thousands of silicones in the world and all start with very natural silica. A few of them were found to damage the environment and the entire industry started to consider thousands of silicones "not clean" despite the fact that they are extremely pure molecules that all start with silica.

Another example would be PEGs. Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are a well-studied class of ingredients in the Pharmaceutical, Cosmetic and Food industries. Being so versatile, they are commonly used for various applications, including solvents, surfactants, lubricants and plasticizers. PEGs have been perceived in a negative light due to the contaminants that they are associated with. Those include ethylene oxide, 1,4-dioxane, polycyclic aromatic compounds, and heavy metals such as lead, iron, cobalt, nickel, cadmium, and arsenic. However, our manufacturers take all necessary measures to remove as much of those contaminants as possible, ensuring the safety of their use. With regards to its safety of use for topical application, PEGs are completely safe to use on intact skin as they are not capable of reaching layers within the skin further than the epidermis.

If you have questions about any ingredient that we use, please reach out to our team at DECIEM.com/contact and my lab team will provide a response.

Hi Prudvi!! Over years of trial and error, I’ve found my skin works best with acids. I love your salicylic acid and glycolic acid peel. I also use your azelaic acid cream. Awesome products at a very affordable price!

My question is—what is the correct way to layer products when considering pH level? It is my understand that it would be bad to pre-mix solutions that don’t have the same pH level; does this also apply to layering on the face? Does adding a pH of 4 on top of a pH of 8 work? Will they mix and mess with their pH levels? Would it be best to pick products that all have the same pH level?

Have always been confused about this. Hope to receive an answer!! Thanks for taking the time today :)

Hi! Most of our skincare products are around a pH level of 5-6. My best rule of thumb is to follow any listed contraindications for the products you are using and avoid mixing high concentrations of a variable of high-contrasting pH level. Hope this is helpful! P.S., I, too, love breadandtacos. ;-)

When are we getting some news on Avestan? :)

Also, thanks for The Ordinary, I can't stress enough what is has done for my skin.

Thank you so much for the love <3 I can't say anything about Avestan at the moment but please know it's very close to my heart.

Is there actually something that gets rid of black heads for real? All products talk about is minimising the appearance of blackheads. Which sounds like closing the skin but keeping the blackhead-stuf stay inside the skin.

Blackheads, often referred to as open comedones, are clogged pores with an opening at the top, causing its contents (a mix of sebum, skin microbiome and dead skin cells) to oxidize and turn black when exposed to oxygen in air. Blackheads can be mitigated with the use of chemical exfoliation and regular efficient cleansing. For example, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid are chemical exfoliating agents that are lipophilic (oil-loving) in nature. This allows them to mix with the lipophilic impurities within the skin to achieve a deeper cleanse of the skin and pores. I hope this helps! :-)

Is there any room for extremely low maintenance skincare (ie: not cleansing everyday) and using treatment products on the occasion? Or is the only way to see results from a structured routine?

Hi! Absolutely :-) High and low maintenance skincare routines can each be effective in their own ways, dependent on your skin concerns. While I feel that cleansing is an important step of any routine, a simple hydrator and a treatment product on occasion (such as Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution) could suffice based on your needs.

Are there any plans in the future to make mixed ingredient products in the future, for a price point that's in between TO & NIOD?

Deciem launched an amino lip balm that was great aside from the taste the aminos created - I see the line was relatively promptly put aside on the brand menu for now... What are the plans on releasing an improved formula?

Thank you!

Have you met Hylamide? hylamide.com ;-)

I have heard the feedback loud and clear, and we have a tastier version in a better tube coming soon.

How does Deciem keep prices so low for their products through The Ordinary? They are incredibly effective and my wallet (and husband!) are so happy.

I'm happy you're both happy :-) The reason for our pricing is that The Ordinary offers clinical skincare ingredients that have been on the market for years, sometimes decades, and we believe it's the right thing to do.

Hi Prudvi! I have read through so many threads of people discussing how they use TO L-AA powder, and others telling them they are doing it wrong. It makes sense that you would need to use something water soluble and pH test, but I see so many people saying they just mix 1/2 spoon with a random moisturizer or serum and see results. I also used to use the hugely overpriced Philosophy Turbo C powder (same thing basically) way way back in the day, mixed with a water-based serum or my moisturizer, and I really thought it was effective but maybe it was a placebo effect.

Can I just mix it with NMF or would improper pH render it useless? If I make a cocktail of a couple drops of the Ferulic/resveratrol, a few drops of my hada labo HA serum, and 1/2 scoop of the powder, will it be effective without buying pH strips?

And one more follow-up, if I can mix it with an HA serum or NMF, can I then still apply to damp skin as I regularly would with these products, or does my skin need to be dry? Would the L-AA concoction need to be the first thing applied to my skin OR could I do my HA serum to damp skin, and THEN the NMF mixed with the L-AA powder?

Thank you so much for your time!

That is an awesome question! :-)

As a simple solution, if you are mixing a small concentration of pure LAA powder with water to create a solution, that is okay as the Vitamin C will adjust the pH of the water to acidic. If you are mixing a high concentration of pure LAA Powder, you may mix it with an oil to create a suspension as the oil will support the delivery of the Vitamin C to the skin.

Hello. Aside from your formal education background, what career path did you take that lead you to skincare and where you are now?

PS I love your work!

Thanks!

Hello :-) Aside from my educational background, it was our founder, Brandon Truaxe, who presented me with the opportunity and molded me (through DECIEM) to be an engine for innovation.

What's the difference between product development and research? What kind of projects do you work on or have worked on in the past to give us some examples for both?

What product/development are you most proud of? Has there been any project that didn't work out? Why? Any new plans?

Hi :-) Research and product development are both key parts of bringing products to life. Research for us includes finding literature that supports the product development. Development for us includes the full product development lifecycle, from conception to distribution (all in-house!) and every DECIEM product starts with research before product development.

Out of the hundreds of products I've had a hand in creating, I'm most proud of The Ordinary's Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% - it's the most stable format of Vitamin C (which is one of the most unstable active ingredients to formulate with).

A good example of a project that didn't work out is Abnomaly's Petrowhat? :-( We quickly learned that some customers didn't enjoy the taste (or packaging) and we are coming out with a tastier, better packaged version (hopefully soon).

Could you possibly give us a timeline for the release of DECIEM's other brands, Loopha, Abnomaly, and Hippooh?

I don't have a timeline to share just yet but we're aiming for 2020. <3

Hi Prudvi! :) So great you're doing this! The Hylamide Glow Booster says it uses erythrulose instead of DHA to give a tan, as DHA has been shown to increase free radicals when exposed to UV rays. Will erythrulose increase the production of free radicals too but at a lower rate than DHA, or it doesn't increase the production of free radicals at all?

Good question! Erythrulose-treated skin generates lower free radicals in comparison to a DHA-treated skin. I would suggest following with SPF as usual to ensure your skin is protected. :-)

Hello Prudvi, regarding the new Niod CAIL 1%, is it meant to be Niod’s approach to Retin-A? Meaning it will boost celular renewal and shed dead skin cells without necessarily exfoliating it. I ask this because the tube itself reminds me of a Tretinoin tube and I also saw “Gothamista” on YouTube mention that it seemed to provide similar benefits to the Tretinoin product she was using - she experienced some skin shedding as a result of using CAIL 1% and made reference to the results being “strong”. So again, just to clarify my question, can CAIL 1% be considered a Tretinoin alternative without necessarily comparing their method of action on the skin, but on the similarity of the results that they provide for the skin itself (increased cell turnover, lightening hyperpigmentation, strengthening the stratum-corneum , reversing sun damage, minimize pore size, etc) ?

P.S., I loved meeting Renée. <3 <3

Hello there :-) Firstly, I can't compare NIOD's CAIL 1% to tretinoin directly as tretinoin is classified a drug and CAIL is a cosmetic skincare product. That said, CAIL 1% does similarly help to improve the appearance of the aforementioned results.

Hello!

I have a question about Hyaluronic acid. I have experienced problems with Hyaluronic serums making my skin feel dryer before I learned it can actually draw water out of skin if in a dryer environment. What is the best form to wear over it to make it effective for very dry skin? You hear about "occlusives" but is that simply a moisturizer? Can an oil also be on top of all of this?

Hi there! Hyaluronic Acid aims to hydrate the skin through retaining moisture from its surrounding environment. Generally speaking, in humid conditions, it is ideal to use a light moisturizer which can retain moisture from the environment. In dry conditions, Hyaluronic Acid and a rich-textured cream like The Ordinary's Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% or NIOD's Hydration Vaccine would be ideal. Our products that contain Hyaluronic Acid also include other active ingredients that have the ability to continuously supply water to the skin and increase the skin’s potential to retain more water. For instance, we incorporate Hyaluronic Acid elastomers, where medium to high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acids are cross linked, generating a variable molecular weight compound that tightly binds water and releases it in a timely fashion upon application on the skin. I hope this is helpful! :-)

Hi Prudvi! Thanks for doing this AMA. I just bought The Ordinary Nicacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, mainly to help with my PIH. Any tips on how to incorporate it into my routine? Other than a moisturizer and SPF, I currently use azelaic acid and tretinoin as my active ingredients.

Hi :-) I'm so excited for you to try and hope you enjoy everything. I would suggest applying Niacinamide in your morning routine after cleansing, before moisturizer and sunscreen. For in-depth help with regimen building, please visit DECIEM.com/contact or DM us @deciem on Instagram to be in touch with our team who will be happy to help.

Hi Pruvdi. I'm curious as to how to get rid of comedonal acne? I have used TOs Glycolic Acid which helped for a while but now they're back.

Second question, what is truly the highest spf that gives the best sunscreen protection?

Hello :-) There are multiple factors related to comedonal acne. If it's a recurring issue, I would suggest consulting with your physician. We are also working on The Ordinary Pharmaceuticals which may offer some solutions for you in the future.

Regarding sun protection, SPF 30 blocks up to 97% of UVB rays and SPF 60 blocks up to 98%. While SPF 60 offers an additional 1% of protection, the formula would require many more actives and may not have a good texture for application. I would also suggest looking for products that offer PA+++ level protection (or more) and reapplying every 2 hours, as well as 20 minutes prior to UV exposure. Hope this is helpful <3

Looking to get serious about my skincare. Specifically in the face area. Some foundational tips on a good daily skincare routine??

A minimalistic routine is a great place to start - if you're just starting, a cleanser, toning solution and a moisturizer would be excellent. :-)

any advice for people who have large pores on their noses (mine is from sun damage I believe). Any specific routines to look at?

Hello :-) Pore size is genetically determined, but pores can appear larger due to shine, congestion, and aging, as well as other factors. Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is a great place to start, as well as exfoliating with alpha or beta hydroxy acids to improve the appearance of pores and congestion. Hope this is helpful!

Why can't your niacinamide be used with your vitamin c's when other brands can?

Our contraindication is specific to our products and their concentrations. If you've used them together in the past and the combination has worked for you without any issues, you may continue to do so :-)

Why do some oils irritate dermatitis and others not. Are there plans for more cleansers from The Ordinary?

Hi! I'd suggest discontinuing use and consulting with your physician or dermatologist if anything is irritating. On your second question, there are plans for more cleansers within The Ordinary - stay tuned! ;-)

Hi, thank you so much for doing the AMA. And your work in general :) I was wondering what kind of tests new products go through? Besides some stability stuff I suppose, how do you test the texture, effect, interactions etc?

Thank you for your kind words! We have a panel of product testers in-house that test texture, effect, and interactions. :-) We also conduct clinical testing for safety and efficacy.