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IamA Professional Chainmail Artist and Renaissance Faire Insider, AMA!
Hey, folks! Chainmailbill of Utopia Armoury here. I'm a professional chainmail artist with almost 20 years experience. I have been solely self-employed and living off my art for the past 7-8 years. I own a shop at a large, popular renaissance faire and have been there for 14 years - and I definitely have some stories about the "inside" of that culture to share :) I travel to different shows and events around the country and have met thousands of interesting people from all walks of life.
I created a pattern and design for a chainmail bikini top which has since caught on and spread around the world - Now (basically) everyone who makes chainmail bikini tops uses my design (and I'm kind of sore about it). I would love to share with reddit who I am, what I do, and why I love it so much (hint: it's certainly not the money). I'm snowed in and I should be working. AMA!
Links: https://www.facebook.com/UtopiaArmoury (Edit: proof link to AMA just posted) https://www.etsy.com/shop/UtopiaArmoury http://utopia-armoury.deviantart.com/ http://www.modelmayhem.com/3165745
Edit: I'm loving the questions, keep em coming! It's midnight EST and I'll probably be around until maybe 6am. ps why all the downvotes?
chainmailbill5 karma
That's super cool! Thanks so much, I'm really happy that you love visiting and like my work.
Unusual items? All the time. I've made codpieces (banana hammocks), plenty of fetish stuff, I make little additions and adjustments to things all the time. I've made kippot (yarmulkes), bottle holders, glasses chains, an insert for a bulletproof vest, a fireplace screen. I get requests for things that I don't feel comfortable making, like pet collars. If it breaks and an animal gets hurt, I don't want that on my conscience. People have asked me for weird things that I couldn't possibly actually make to any real effect - like sneakers (why?). I get a lot of requests for neckties. I don't make neckties :P
Basically if you can imagine it, someone at some point has asked for it - and nine times out of 10, if you're willing to pay for it, I'll make it.
bonzai20102 karma
As a barefoot runner, I can understand where someone might ask for minimalist shoes made of chain mail. The hope would be to avoid glass. I don't think it would work very well.
chainmailbill1 karma
nah, and it would be more painful than wearing either shoes or going barefoot.
Snarfengroggler1 karma
Why won't you make ties? On principle, or are they just too hard to, er, tie?
chainmailbill3 karma
Mostly principle. It's just not where my artistic interests lie. It's probably also because people keep asking for them. There's plenty of artists out there who make them, so I feel like I don't have to.
Chainmail ties are usually (always?) made without having to actually tie them, the "knot" is built solid and it's worn kind of like a clip-on.
Bulby376 karma
Are you familiar with the Society for Creative Anachronism, and if so, why do you not sell at their events?
chainmailbill9 karma
I am! I've never been to an SCA event either personally or professionally, but I'm interested in their two-week long event in western PA called Pennsic.
I think the SCA has a bit of a different focus than a ren faire, my work is 100% not historically accurate and I don't make armour anymore. I use a lot of bright colors, modern materials, and unique designs, and from what I understand the SCA is more focused on historical accuracy.
Bulby372 karma
Yes, they are, but you may find variations in that. I have seen little chain mail trinkets (which wouldn't qualify as "period" in design or material), as well as plush dragons in the merchant tents at events I've attended. Oh yeah, and there was a guy selling daggers made out of railroad spikes one time lol. The groups around here appreciate craft and beauty sometimes, so long as it isn't falsely represented as authentic. Find someone in your area to speak with, you may find a previously untapped market for your wares!
chainmailbill6 karma
Thanks for the heads up! Like I said, I am interested in checking out Pennsic.
Lemme turn this AMA on its head: How big is the average SCA event? Are the events open to the public, or members-only?
dragonzim1 karma
Pennsic is closed to the public. You need to either pay to enter as a guest or as a merchant. Most of your stuff wouldn't do well at a full on sca event because of its non historical focus. That's now to say your work isn't fantastic, just not what most people in the sca would be looking for.
chainmailbill1 karma
I've heard differently, I have a bunch of (vendor) friends who go and I've been told time and again I should check it out.
R2gro25 karma
How do you manage to turn a profit, considering how labour intensive a craft maille is?
chainmailbill6 karma
I've been doing this a long time. Lots of trial and error. Lots of practice - I'm pretty quick at it at this point, and I can make most things in my repertoire without thinking too hard about it. I work a lot. I try to market myself well, I exhibit my work at events large and small, and I've built up a following both in real life and on the intertubes.
I hate patting myself on the back too hard but I've developed some pretty unique things, I've used social media to my advantage, and I constantly try to drive traffic to my pages. Basically, I stand on whatever mountaintop is available to me and shout out to the world.
More than all of that, though, is that I've been incredibly lucky, incredibly fortunate, and I'm incredibly humbled that so many people love my work and are willing to spend their hard-earned money on it.
ByeByeLiver5 karma
Love your work! Any stories of people taking their desire to stay in character/period way too far behind the scenes?
chainmailbill7 karma
Almost never. At our Faire, we have after-hours, where we get cheap food and beer and all hang out and make merry. Sometimes (often) people wear garb (faire clothes) but almost never stay in character or use accent or anything. Every once in a while someone will slip up and catch themselves.
Most of the performers, especially at the bigger shows, are professionals and are very adept at flipping the switch between "in character" and "out", but some of the volunteer/amateur/new actors will sometimes use their faire accents after-hours.
That said, a lot of the pros will maintain the character/accent behind the scenes during the faire day (hanging out backstage smoking a cigarette, for instance) even when talking about modern day crap. Watching a bearded, kilted scotsman talk about getting his crappy Ford Taurus fixed or raiding Black Temple in a rolling brogue is pretty amusing.
TheKiltedStranger5 karma
So there's this guy on reddit, I can't remember his username, but he did these awesome Aquaman and Captain America scale-mail outfits. (A google search turned his Aquaman up on this forum, there's pics!) Now, I love what's going on there, but at the top of his costumes, there by the collar, the scale kind of flips up. You should be able to see it in some of those photos.
That really bugs me. I've been contemplating doing something like this myself, but if it's going to flip up like that at the top... it's bad enough that it'd be a deal breaker for me.
As a professional, do know of a way that can be avoided? Like, I don't need a super detailed explaination or how to, just a yes or no: is it always going to do that? No matter what?
Thanks, man. You've got some excellent stuff... and I might start dropping some hints at my fiancee soon regarding grabbing one of your tops! :D
chainmailbill3 karma
Nah, honestly I don't know what's going on there. I think he was shooting for some sort of collar or neck armor as well, and maybe it's not laced up in the progress shots? I think, too, that the rings he's using to connect his scales might be a little thick, which is adding bulk and making it flip over. There's a way to stabilize the edges of scale work so that they stay ordered and lined up in place.
Here's a quick scale mantle I did with a buddy of mine: http://imgur.com/ktNb1g9 note no weird flipping or fringe.
I'm super glad you like my work! Thanks so much for the compliments! Hit me up when you're ready for a top :)
itsonlyamovie4 karma
Got my chain mail bikini from you during the last Penn Renn faire, most comfortable thing to hold up my breasts by far!
chainmailbill3 karma
Excellent! I'm glad you like it!
I hear that a lot - that my tops are usually more comfortable than bras - and it makes me really happy/proud :)
viking_odor4 karma
Your chainmail would be nothing against the mighty blow of the noble viking war axe. Peasant.
poutina3 karma
Is it true that if you work on chainmail for x time (say, the length of filming a certain fantasy movie), using only your hands, will your fingerprints disappear?
I'm only asking because I know how you feel about it.
chainmailbill3 karma
Info for those interested: WETA used a really interesting process for making their stage chainmail - namely, most of it is actually made from PVC pipe, sliced into rings, and then woven together. From what I understand both from making chainmail and working with PVC pipe, what likely wore the prints off of their fingers was the plastic sawdust and rough cut edges of the pipe rings. Real chainmail is made from metal, usually with two pairs of pliers.
It took me about 5 minutes to figure out who you were. It was fun. I feel like a super-sleuth.
chainmailbill2 karma
Basically (and I hate myself for using this word) I set to work on doxxing you. Hit me on FB and I'll walk you through my process, because privacy is nice.
Edit: Oh, how did I know you were Duke Silver? derp. Sometimes I don't get jokes.
TheXee3 karma
How do you do your photography? Do you have a professional photographer, or do you do it yourself? And how do you find your models?
chainmailbill9 karma
I do just about all my own photogtaphy. I have a canon rebel XS and a couple lenses, a tripod, and I built my own softbox for that white seamless background look out of some posterboard, tissue paper, and an old cardboard box.
Most if not all of my models are my friends, people I've met at faires, customers who are happy with what they just bought, or occasionally someone will try something on and it'll look so spectacular that I'll ask if I can snap a picture and post it :)
I've done a little bit of work with models I've found via Model Mayhem, but I'm mostly just lucky that I know a million gorgeous people who are happy to work with me.
misskitty50773 karma
What initially got you into maille?
Do you make your base metal rings or buy them?
What is your favorite metal to work with?
What are your favorite pliers?
What is your favorite weave?
What is your favorite piece that you have made and wound up keeping for yourself?
chainmailbill5 karma
What initially got you into maille?
I was a huge nerd at 12 and wanted a chainmail shirt of my own. Turns out I didn't know where to find one (this was pre-internet). Once the internet came around, I realized I couldn't afford one. My dad and I went to the hardware store and bought some tie wire and started messing around, using some of my historical reference books.
Do you make your base metal rings or buy them?
Yes. I make my own saw cut bright aluminum rings in a bunch of different sizes (shameless plug: https://www.etsy.com/shop/UtopiaSupplies) but sometimes I buy them, too. It depends what I need, what I have on hand, and when. I buy all my anodized aluminum rings, mostly because I don't want to mess around with chemicals. I sometimes make silver rings, too, although a lot of the time it's much easier to buy them.
What is your favorite metal to work with?
Probably niobium, but I use more anodized aluminum than anything else.
What are your favorite pliers?
I'd say Tronex model 745, because they're the most comfortable and ergonomic, but I can break a pair in about 6-8 weeks of constant use. So, maybe the Wubbers? Maybe Lindstrom RX 7490. I guess it depends on what I'm using them for.
What is your favorite weave?
Yes. :)
They're all great. Except for dragonscale. I usually won't do it unless the price is right. I like JPL a lot. I have a love/hate relationship with HP3/1, I've been making it for like 10 years and even still every once in a while I'll forget how to start it and throw the piece across the room/shop/yard.
What is your favorite piece that you have made and wound up keeping for yourself?
I don't think I've ever made anything, loved it, and kept it. The only pieces of chainmail that I myself even "own" are a titanium byzantine bracelet that's been sealed on my left wrist for about 8 years and the green and silver byzantine sporran chain I wear with my kilt, both of which I made for me.
That said, my girlfriend has a whole bunch of my work. When she sees something she likes, she'll grab it and squirrel it away. I have made a whole bunch of awesome things that I am very happy that have been given/sold to friends, so they're still "around" I guess :)
chainmailbill3 karma
Yep. I don't mind, I leave stuff everywhere. In our living room right now there are like 10 gallon-sized ziploc bags full of different types of jewelry (barrettes in one, bracelets in another for example) and often she'll grab stuff she likes that matches what she's wearing. I don't mind :)
misskitty50771 karma
I love my Wubbers, both baby and classic bent nose. I've been pondering picking up a set of flat nose recently...
I did a Dragonscale cuff in 18g marine bronze and brass that I will never part with. That thing was a beast! My FIL has held his arm out more than once for a copper piece he saw me working on. My first JPL was gifted to him because there was no way I could sell it after cussing it so long. My husband wanted a stainless 14g FP with a shackle until he wore it a few times. I warned him it would be a beast...lol.
I got my start wanting a Byz but not wanting to pay for one. I decided to try making one (pre internet) but couldn't find anything to help. No clue what AR was then. Eventually I found tutorials and discovered BA (then niobium, titanium, Argentenium and, most recently, marine bronze.
After not picking up my pliers for months, I've recently started getting the urge again. :)
chainmailbill1 karma
That's awesome! Keep the art going :) 14g FP would have to be what, like 3/8" ID? I've never done 14g FP.
I should have specified - basically all the pliers I've used for the past ten years have been wide flat nose pliers with no teeth :)
misskitty50771 karma
I think I used 7/16" to make sure it had a pretty good amount of flex. I had someone want a bracelet done in 14g and it just would not flex enough to work and look good.
I probably have 30 pair of pliers now. I have full size and mini linesman with teeth that I only use on the huge SS or the marine bronze. Everything else is smooth and has filed edges to make them less likely to mar.
So many have helped me to get to this point. Anytime someone asks any question that I can help answer, I do my damnedest to pay it forward. :)
chainmailbill1 karma
I haven't counted my pliers collection in a long time. I probably have 30-50 too, I'd bet, in addition to round nose (wire wrapping) pliers, wire cutters, shears, forming tools... I have even saved all of my old, broken pliers.
One goal I have, when I have thousands of dollars in disposable income, is to have a super talented blacksmith take all my old tools and make a stunning damascus blade one day. Something I can give to my kids (or my godsons, if I don't end up having any of my own).
TheBagman072 karma
Does the difference in materials matter much timewise if you were making a lightweight show piece vs a realistic combat replica, or do all the materials bend in place pretty easily?
chainmailbill1 karma
Well, disclaimer, I don't make armor anymore. I haven't in 10 years.
That said, making a shirt out of butted rings a soft metal like aluminum, versus a springy, strong metal like stainless steel, takes a lot less time. Even a difference of a half a second adds up, when you're closing 40,000 rings. You also need to take more frequent breaks when you're working with harder materials, to combat wrist and joint fatigue.
A true combat replica would be made out of riveted rings - where each ring has a tiny rivet in it to hold it together - and the process of winding, cutting, overlapping, hammer flattening, punching, weaving, prepping the rivet, and setting the rivet for this type of maille can take anywhere between 10 and 15 times the amount of time and effort of closing butted maille, where the cut ends of the ring simply butt together.
benzinow2 karma
Ive been trying to learn how to do chainmail my biggest struggle has been with losing my place constantly when all the jump rings are the same color.
What can I do to make this easier (besides use multiple colors)?
chainmailbill3 karma
Honestly, practice, same as anything else.
Without knowing what weaves you're trying, you could maybe use twist ties to mark your place, or string the piece on a wire or lay it flat on a board. Ideally what you're going to want to practice is never putting your pliers down and manipulating the piece in your hand such that you can hold the piece you're working on, your pliers, and a new ring all at once. That way you can know where each new ring needs to go.
Check out cgmaille.com for some pretty easy to use tutorials :)
chainmailbill1 karma
Do you mean tux or sterling? I visited each once, and had a lovely time. Unfortunately NYRF and PARF have an awful lot of overlap, so I don't get a chance to get up there much. I know a bunch of people up that way, though :)
pbandjellie242 karma
Tuxedo, by home faire. Best place in the whole world. Chain mail sounds fascinating.
chainmailbill1 karma
I don't know if they're still there, but I remember a couple chainmail vendors there. One made stuff mostly out of really small stainless steel rings, which is (spoilers) machine made.
chainmailbill4 karma
Well, it's not exactly full time. I'm not on the road - I don't travel from show to show, hauling a trailer and my life around. I know lots of people who do, and it looks like a pretty wonderful existence, really, full of love and friendship pretty much wherever you go.
When I travel, I travel from home (outside Philadelphia) to a show, then back home. I have an apartment over my booth at PARF, and I stay there on the weekends and sometimes during the week during the season. I call it my "adult treehouse" and I could basically live there if I wanted to. No plumbing in the building, but the bathrooms aren't too far away.
Mostly, I work from home. I watch a lot of Netflix while I work. The back room of the house is my workshop, for ring storage and all my shipping supplies and all that. I go to bed when I'm tired and I don't set an alarm. It's pretty nice.
toreishii2 karma
Considering that bellydancers, esp tribal style dancers, love the chainmail, I was wondering if you ever set up at any of the east coast belly dance conventions? I believe Wicked Faire is being held at the same venue as Spring Caravan. Also, have you considered making a basic belt base for dancers to mod with coins, bells, tassels, what have you?
chainmailbill2 karma
I've never thought about this - but I'm interested! It's certainly something to look into. Do you attend Wicked? If so, you should come find me next weekend and we should talk about it.
I could probably design a decent basic belt, I bet, but chainmail has the awesome benefit of being super crazy customizable - You can basically add what you want, where you want it :)
dr_miller962 karma
How did you get into making chainmail? And to branch off of that how were you able to start professionally?
chainmailbill1 karma
I answered this a little bit in an earlier question, but basically I was young and wanted a chainmail shirt. I was a bit of a nerd (still am). My dad was super supportive of my hobby and we went hardware/tool shopping. I started as mostly self-taught, working off of photos in reference books; this was before the internet was a thing that ordinary people had at home. I played a lot of d&d and video games with a medieval flair... I have been into European history/knights/swords since really before I can remember.
I started "professionally" in the sense that I started making money off of my hobby in high school. I made things for friends and sold little knick-knacks for pocket change and really enjoyed it. The first turning point was spending a day in I think 11th grade in in-school suspension, with rings and pliers, and making like fifty bucks worth of stuff while sitting there.
In my senior year, my (then) girlfriend and I went to the renaissance faire, and I noticed they didn't have a chainmail person at all. She put the idea in my head to sell my stuff there, and I ended up getting in contact with the faire. Luckily, the vendor coordinator gave me, a 17 year old kid, a chance. I graduated high school in June of 2000 and my very first day ever of selling chainmail was labor day weekend that same year.
I was originally only going to be there for one weekend, just to try it out, and I ended up being super successful. Or, looking back, what any 17 year old would consider successful. My "tent" was a shambles. My costume was terrible. My accent was worse. My product and selection was probably incredibly meh-inspiring. But I loved it, I was hooked, and I stayed and finished out the season.
I started college that spring (pushed it off from starting in the fall, due to faire) and spent the next few years juggling PARF, school, and working a couple shitty part time jobs. I dropped out of school to focus on my art (disclaimer: this is usually a terrible idea) and worked "normal" jobs until 2007, when I felt I was ready to take the next step and really commit to my art full-time. It's been 7 years since then, and I've been working super hard ever since to be able to do what I love for a living.
chainmailbill2 karma
Do you mean, like chain letters? Send $5 to each person on this list, take the top name off, and put your name at the bottom? That sort of thing?
I use "chainmail" and "maille" pretty interchangeably, mostly I use chainmail because that's what the general public understands. In conversation (speaking), especially, maille sounds like mail - letters, emails, etc.
In the most technical sense, "chainmail" is an incorrect term, kind of like RAM memory or an ATM machine. "Mail" means, in this context, an armor or fabric of interlocking metal rings. To that end, "plate-mail" and "scale-mail" are incorrect, too. "Mail" comes from the Old French maillot, which basically means mesh, which in turn comes from the Latin macula which was used both for what we call chainmail and also nets, like fishing nets.
Staying_Anon2 karma
Are you the professional chainmail artist behind the Nigerian prince scams?
KingGilgamesh19792 karma
Hopefully you can answer this without alienating anyone, but do you have a favorite Renn Faire? Is there one that is more "authentic" or were the visitors seem to take it more seriously?
chainmailbill2 karma
I think I really am in love with PA Ren Faire the most. I don't think it's specifically for those reasons you listed, but I've been there for 14 years. It's where I started, it's the only faire where I own a building. There's a lot of love and nostalgia for my home faire.
Wighthound2 karma
I'm an artist who really loves reading up on armor and weaponry for the sake of accurate character and costume design, so this is pretty cool to read.
My question would be - do you have any favorite books on historical fashion and armor, or other resources - sites, pdfs, etc? Currently the only two books I really have on armor is Weapon and A Chronicle History of Knights.
chainmailbill1 karma
There are a whole bunch that I'm a fan of, but I think the two that are my favorites are Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight by David Edge and John Miles Paddock and there's also Techniques of Medieval Armour Reproduction by Brian Price.
I don't know if either are available in PDF, I have both in hardback, you know, back when books were a thing ;P
givemebitcoins1 karma
Where is your shop located? Do you ever open up shop in other festival grounds?
chainmailbill1 karma
My "main" shop is at the Pennsylvania Renaissance Faire, in Manheim PA. I'm there a few weekends in May, one in June (for non Faire events) and then every weekend from August to October.
I also do Wicked Faire, Steampunk World's Fair, The Geeky Kink Event all in north Jersey; the New Jersey Renaissance Faire and a few smaller events in NJ. I'm at Fairie Festival in Glen Rock PA, and I might be at the NY Fairie Fest and/or the CT Ren Faire this summer. In April, I'll be going out to Norman, OK, for the Medieval Fair there.
In the past I've been at the Virginia Renaissance Faire, but schedules ended up overlapping and I can't make it down there anymore.
In the future, I want to get more into anime and fandom cons - the few I've done are fun and I would love to check out vending at shows like Katsucon, Otakon, and even Dragon*Con.
TheKiltedStranger1 karma
I don't recognize either of those terms in this context, and that fascinates me.
chainmailbill4 karma
Most big ren faires have a human chess match and a throne for the Queen to sit upon.
aab7201 karma
Is your work heavy? Or do you make it differently so its light? Can you post a pic of a close up of one of your pieces where i dont have to log into a facebook (which i dont have) to view it?
chainmailbill3 karma
Most of my work is lightweight. I use a lot of modern materials like anodized aluminum and neoprene rubber. I don't make armor, if that's what you're picturing.
Up top there are 4 links, one is FB; there are also links to my Etsy page and my Deviantart page, which each have plenty of plenty of pictures of my work.
ShinyTinker1 karma
Ever go to any Dagorhir events? I saw you mentioned Pennsic and we use the same camp ground for our yearly, big event (Ragnarok).
ShinyTinker1 karma
Sort of. Not a normal LARP though, as it's full contact. Padded weapons (instead of padded people, like the SCA), and more laid back than most. Hella fun and lots in your area (Phillyish I think I saw?). I'm about 5 hours from you in MD and most months have something going on in the area!! It's wicked fun and colorful, happy chainmail always does super well! I got a happy anklet with clamshell bells on it!! Yay!! Jingle jingle shiny shiny.
chainmailbill1 karma
I larped a bunch when I was younger, and I loved it, but unfortunately I am a real child when it comes to being outside in the cold... and basically every weekend that it's nice enough for me to be outside I'm doing a show. I would have fun doing it again, I think. I used to love the RP aspect of Faire a little more too, I got really into a character and stuff. Maybe I'll take a look around here and give it another shot some time. I'm more of a "smash my enemies for the glory of Kord and feast from their skulls" kind of RPer than a "jingle shiny sparkle" but that's cool too I guess.
creviston1 karma
When you watched Thor 2 were you a) impressed, or b) baffled, that the pillows in the getaway boat were covered in chain mail ?
chainmailbill2 karma
I've gotten plenty of junk mail. I've gotten plenty of email scams and spam. I've actually never gotten a single chain letter IRL.
ThatsMrAsshole2You1 karma
The downvotes are because you are on the Internet and there are a LOT of insane people here.
Beautiful work. Wow.
chainmailbill4 karma
Plenty different. The only faire folk who could be even compared to carnies are what we call "pushmonkeys" - These are the people who push the rides, run the games, that sort of thing. Anything that has a carnival feel to it, come to think of it.
Most of the folk at Faire aren't carnies at all - They shower, they don't steal, they're intelligent. It's just a bad stereotype since some of them travel around and sell/perform as a living.
Gnovaa-2 karma
How do you think of all the chain mail you send? I remember that one that was like "if you don't send this to 10 friends you will have bad luck for a year". Was that one of yours?
chainmailbill4 karma
That's... not what I do. I wonder if that's why I'm getting such a steady stream of downvotes.
chainmailbill5 karma
Enough?
Stay away from onion grass, it's a bitch and doesn't burn well.
Dandelions are okay.
chainmailbill11 karma
I like joints. It would really be hard to work my pliers without knuckles and wrists.
friedjumboshrimp-8 karma
Do you find Renaissance chicks either super sexy or beastly pigs, there never seems to be middle ground. What the best foods to buy at faires?
chainmailbill16 karma
Let's start with what should be obvious: That's an incredibly rude and sexist classification, and the women of all shapes, sizes, colors, and ages who go to renaissance faires are real people and not just objects to be classified by /u/friedjumboshrimp.
Best food? If you're going to PARF (please don't), I'm a big fan of the crab dip.
consciousdear9 karma
I can safely say your stand is one of the many things I look forward to visiting every year at the faire. I have lost count at the number of earring sets I have and will probably be purchasing soon (helps that my last order snagged me a coupon expiring right around my birthday)
Have there ever been any requests for unusual chain mail made items?
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