Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything!

How do sit down when you have giant brass balls?

PS congrats on succeeding where Alister Crowley failed.

Very carefully :)

Which climb was more difficult (physically or emotionally), K2 or Everest?

K2 physically but Everest emotionally since it was 3 times to attempt it before I summited.

Just waiting for proper weather conditions, or were you physically unable?

2002: mild AMS, 2003: my body didn't acclimatize. In both cases, I underestimated how hard Everest would be and didn't train hard enough. In 2008, I lost my mental edge and gave up. In all 3 times, I reached the same spot at 27,200', just below the Balcony. I changed everything for 2011 and summitted. You can read more at http://www.alanarnette.com/everest/everestfaq.php

What is the hardest thing an older person has to deal with climbing a mountain compared to a younger person?

Not be in competition - do your own climb.

There're only 18 Americans to summit K2? Wow, I expected more.

Yup. it is one tough SOB!

Did you have any moments of sheer terror, in that situation what do you do mentally in order not to panic or lose it?

My descent on K2 was difficult but I have never experienced what I would term "sheer terror". My coping mechanism on the big climbs to go in prepared, knowledgeable and with an attitude of being self sufficient, in other words, no one else will help me if I get in trouble.

Hey Alan, thanks for hosting this AMA! What is your preparation regimen like for these climbs? I'm looking to climb Aconcagua next season with my girlfriend (Very late December 2015, early January 2016) and we're counting on our IRONMAN Boulder and triathlon training for aerobic aptitude and winter camping for technical and gear aptitude. I hiked the Colorado Trail this summer and have done a fair amount of high altitude camping and 14er ascents but this will be our first large summit, any suggestions and/or recommendations for us?

All sounds good! I try to stay at a high level of basic fitness thus requiring only tuning before each climb. But in general it is the same process each time. Living in Colorado, I get out 3X a week with long days (12 hours), short, fast days and days with a heavy pack.

Is there any lessons you've learnt from your previous climbs that you're gonna put to use in your next project?

preparation, especially mental toughness is really the key, assuming I have the base level of physical conditioning. Also a ton of little things like hydration.

Much respect man, big admirer, couple of questions?

1. How do you feel K2 compared to other mountains you climbed?

2. What was the most difficult part of the experience?

3. How did fellow climbers treat you on the mountain? Did they believe you could make it?

Thanks again!

Thanks.

1) K2 was the most diffiuclt physical climb ever for me. It started steep and never let up. AND it was the most fun ever with 5+ rock climbing at 22K- 24K.

2) Coming home and reflecting that I was willing to sit down and die on k2.

3) My team and others on different teams were excellent. My specific team was lead by Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering and was outstanding. We all got along well, had fun and supported one another throughout. I never felt any sense of disbelief I could climb K2 from anyone.

Can you expand on your second response? Were you at a point on the mountain where exhaustion was getting to be overwhelming?

tough to answer here but basically, yes. you can read a lot more of my K2 experience here http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2-2014/

Hopefully you're still going to monitor this AMA. You said you started climbing at 38. Does that mean serious mountain climbing or did you start from no experience in climbing to climbing Everest eventually?

Which was your first summit? Any tips on how long you prepared for it etc?

Mont Blanc was my first summit at age 38 with a guide. I had no real experience up to that climb but took on more difficult mountains, gaining experience along the way. I reached 8000m on Cho Oyu climbed Ama Dablam, Denali and Aconcagua prior to attempting Everest.

Did you actually spend some time learning how to use crampons, ice axes, climb technical overhangs or rock faces etc before trying Cho Oyu or any of the 8000s?

Also, was this all self-funded? Crowd funded? Corporate sponsored expeditions?

Yes, learned basic skills on Mont Blanc (3 summits) plus other mountains well before Cho Oyu, Everest. K2 was my 37th climb. I self funded 30 of my climbs and has corporate sponsors for the others.

Nice. Sorry for the third question, but I am a mid 20s guy, fit and able to hike long distances, even at relatively high hiking altitudes (15-16,000 ft) who has limited technical mountain-climbing experience, particularly in snow and ice, but would love to gain some.

When you say "learned basic skills", like did you take a mountaineering course? Did you have someone teach you how to do it etc? Did you start off with basic rock-climbing things like abseiling, rock face climbing etc and then move to ice/snow climbing?

Good on you for self-funding your climbs - I'm sure those were pretty damn expensive, particularly in the Himalayas.

I never took a course, but did hire guides, and climbed with great, great friends who took pity on me to teach me some of the basics. :) After that it was taking my time and steadily progressing up harder and harder climbs.

Looking back, I would have greatly benefited from taking some courses like with NOLS, CMC, or with some of the guide companies. I have this page that may help some: http://www.alanarnette.com/climbing/climbing8000faq.php

What sort of advice do you have regarding training for someone who lives in a flat area near sea level? I know I won't be able to get serious training done where I am, but I'd like a foundation.

cardio, cardio, cardio. I like intervals.

How do you adapt to the cold? Do you get used to it or does your gear keep you fairly comfortable?

Which is your next 8000er?

Honestly, you get more hot than cold given the altitude and direct sunlight. Sunburn is a real problem. But climbing at night or in overcast conditions, layers and quality gear are critical to staying warm.

I hoping to go to Lhotse, 27,940' (8,516 m), 4th highest this spring.

What's your take on the political situation surrounding Everest? I saw Peak Freaks said it won't climb it due to the fickle nature of the Nepalese government. How do you see it all shaking out?

I wrote a long article this week on it for my blog but the bottom line is that I believe Everest will be more or less business as usual for 2015.

http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/01/06/inside-look-everest-2015-may-bring/

Anyone can link to your website, do you have proof that you are actually Alan Arnette?

I just took a great picture of me with my K2 summit cert and a note with Reddit but can't figure out how to post it here!!

http://www.alanarnette.com/reddit.php

Upload to imgur.com. Underneath the text at the top of your AMA, there will be an edit button, click that, and past the link to the photo and then click the save button. Thanks!

Thanks posted it to my own site and put the link as you suggest ed http://www.alanarnette.com/reddit.php

Other than climbing the region is dangerous to out siders how did you mange that?

I've rarely found climbing to be dangerous from the region. Most locals are happy to see you and take your money! :)

Hey, Al. What do you do other than mountain climbing?

public speaking and raising money for AD. Took early retirement as noted earlier.

How do you train for each summit goal? Does it differ every time?

I try to stay at a high level of basic fitness thus requiring only tuning before each climb. But in general it is the same process each time. Living in Colorado, I get out 3X a week with long days (12 hours), short, fast days and days with a heavy pack.

What do you mean by get out for long, short, & fast days?

Sure. I like training outside and am lucky to live in Colorado with access to 14,000’ an hour from my home. I try to get out 3 times a week each time with a specific goal. Long days are 8-12 hours with a 20-30lb pack. This helps me with stamina and endurance. Shorter days, like 4-6 hours with a 30-40 lb pack are designed to go faster to build strength - core, legs and upper body. And speed days are maybe 2-4 hours with a lite pack, 10-20lbs, help with cardio. In all cases I am not going that fast maybe 1,000 to 2,000 feet per hour or 3-4 mph. Put another way, maybe 60% of my max heart rate.

Other people like indoor training with swimming, stair master, elliptical or Crossfit - all are good. The reason I like outdoor is it works your micro muscles with uneven terrain requiring twists and turns. It helps with balance and works all the same muscles you will stress during an expedition. Also, I get to work in all kinds of weather, try out gear and tune systems like layers, gloves, socks, packs, glasses, etc.

Finally I think training for mental toughness is key. Assuming you have the base level of fitness, working on pushing your body beyond where you think you can is key to achieving tough goals. One technique I used was to go to my local favorite climb, Longs Peak, on a very cold (10F) and windy (60mph) day. I get above treeline (11,500’) and push in very uncomfortable conditions. After the wind knocks me off my feet 3 times, I call it good. I do this safely and let people know of my plan. In the end, I am tested but know I can survive, learn where my weaknesses are and adjust my training.

Hope this helps.

Hey Alan, what kind of sponsorships do you have and how did those deals come together?

Not from gear companies - almost impossible for "normal" people to get those other some gear. Johnson & Johnson was one of my sponsors and Abila another. Both were very supportive of my Alzheimer's work and I'm very grateful to them.

Do you have any connections to someone with Alzheimer's, if not what is your reasoning behind why you're so passionate about that specific cause?

I lost my mom and two aunts to Alzheimer's Disease. I took early retirement to oversee the care of my mom the last 3 years of her life.

Alan, how did you find the country of Pakistan as a foreign climber? The recent massacre of a climbing team seems to have tarnished the country's image, although people like Phil Powers still say it is a great country for climbing.

In Pakistan, I felt very safe and welcomed in spite of the massacre at Nanga Parbat a year earlier where 11 climbers were executed at base camp. I fully agree with Phil.

Is there anything else you want to do with your life?

Do what I can to help researchers find a cure for Alzheimer's so no family or individual goes through what my mom and our family did.

Hello Alan.

1. Have you experienced any long term effects from being exposed to high altitude? http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/brain-cells-into-thin-air/

2. Have you read/what are your thoughts on Michael Kodas' book High Crimes?

1. Not that I know of, but how would I know? :) Seriously, I don't think so.

2. Yes. Everest is so complex that most any author can find fodder for their premise. That said, it was full of sad stories yet I can tell you an equal number of great stories thus proving my point :)

I dont know much about these climbs. Is there ever a point where you can just fall off a cliff and die while climbing? or is the main danger lack of oxygen and freezing?

yes to all. Climbs like Ama Dablam and Alpamayo are steep. The section between the Bottleneck and the summit on K2 is deadly where a slip will result in death. But yes, temps are brutal with the wind chill and the risks of altitude related illness are ever-present.

On your journey to summit K2 did anyone die on the mountain? I heard something like 25% of the people who attempt it die.

That's not accurate. You're referring to the summit to fatality ratio. There have been 246 summits and 55 deaths on the mountain. Many more have attempted.

Yep, the deadliest mountain is actually Dhaulagiri IV at a little over 8% for everyone who goes above basecamp

Nope, its annapurna 1

Edit: Kangchenjunga was old source(wp)

Yes, one person died in 2104. He was solo without supplemental Os for his first try then used Os but died after his summit at Camp 4.

Summits to Death #

Annapurna 191.67 35% K2 354/82 23% thru 2013 Kanchenjunga 284/43 15% Everest 7000/276 4% thru 2014

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I posted this earlier about my training including mental toughness.

Sure. I like training outside and am lucky to live in Colorado with access to 14,000’ an hour from my home. I try to get out 3 times a week each time with a specific goal. Long days are 8-12 hours with a 20-30lb pack. This helps me with stamina and endurance. Shorter days, like 4-6 hours with a 30-40 lb pack are designed to go faster to build strength - core, legs and upper body. And speed days are maybe 2-4 hours with a lite pack, 10-20lbs, help with cardio. In all cases I am not going that fast maybe 1,000 to 2,000 feet per hour or 3-4 mph. Put another way, maybe 60% of my max heart rate.

Other people like indoor training with swimming, stair master, elliptical or Crossfit - all are good. The reason I like outdoor is it works your micro muscles with uneven terrain requiring twists and turns. It helps with balance and works all the same muscles you will stress during an expedition. Also, I get to work in all kinds of weather, try out gear and tune systems like layers, gloves, socks, packs, glasses, etc.

Finally I think training for mental toughness is key. Assuming you have the base level of fitness, working on pushing your body beyond where you think you can is key to achieving tough goals. One technique I used was to go to my local favorite climb, Longs Peak, on a very cold (10F) and windy (60mph) day. I get above treeline (11,500’) and push in very uncomfortable conditions. After the wind knocks me off my feet 3 times, I call it good. I do this safely and let people know of my plan. In the end, I am tested but know I can survive, learn where my weaknesses are and adjust my training.

Hope this helps.

I know those climbs get rather costly, did you have to wait until you were 38 to climb for that reason? Or was it something you didnt discover until then?

I focused on family and career the early part of my life (sub 38) but always had the itch to climb. After a climb of Mont Blanc at age 38 and a trek to Everest Base Camp at 39, I was hooked and made climbing a priority by cutting back on my obsession with work. Family has always been a priority. I funded it through having a good education and job pus we made climbing a priority for our family budget. Later in life I have been sponsored for some of my climbs.

Are the major mountains shitted up with trash and stuff the way some people say they are or is that must more green propaganda? Are the mountains really as fragile as some people say they are? If so, how do you rationalize damaging them just for your own personal gratification?

Some mountains are horrible like Elbrus, other are just fine. On every mountain you can spots that have been "over-loved" Everest on the Nepal side is not bad overall but the Chinese side is badly littered.

Tundra is fragile taking hundreds of years to grow. But on most of the largest mountains you walk on snow, not tundra.

Climbing can be selfish but also very rewarding, to each their own without judgments. I practice leave no trace as much as humanly possible.

I live in Fort Collins. What are your favorite hikes in the area? What ones do you use for training purposes?

Longs is my playground but also quick ones like Twin Sisters, Horsetooth and Gray rock.

Do you think they need to control better those who attempt longs? I don't understand how it is so popular considering how many deaths there have been recently.

25,000 a year attempt it with 2-4 deaths. I would oppose any controls. Most of the deaths were preventable.

Just getting into mountaineering, will be doing my first winter summit of Mt. Baldy here in SoCal in a few weeks. Any suggestions for peaks on the west coast to continue my mountaineering development?

You have some great ones on the West Coast. Build skills by climbing in all seasons, go with people whom you can learn from and practice leave no trace, safety and having fun. Work on mental toughness by pushing to your limits within reason and safety. Always have a plan B and tell someone of your plans.

Which colorado 14ers were your favorite to climb? Also: have any advice for a 20 year old on how to make the jump from climbing 14ers in the summer to true mountaineering?

Love Capital, Pyramid and Longs. Climb Rainier, it's the closest we have in the US to a Himalayan peak.

Oh no, I just saw this! Congrats on summiting.

What is the greatest mountain in the world, based on its aesthetic appearance?

Were you ever worried about safety in Pakistan, getting from Islamabad to Askole?

What was the most physically demanding segment of your climb? The black pyramid or getting past the bottlenose? Did you ever feel your life was in danger, be it due to avalanche, team decision making, or climbing?

I love the pointy ones: K2, Ama Dablam, Alpamayo for aesthetics.

No worries about safety in Pak, addressed this earlier in this thread.

I got mild HAPE on the ascent, so it was tough. Otherwise, it was a ton of fun, especially the Black Pyramid. Houses Chimney was not as hard as I expected.

read more at http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2-2014/

This is probably a cliche - but what is the advice you would give someone who is new to climbing or is aspiring to climb but hasn't gathered the courage to try if?

No, real concern for many, Start small and grow skills and confidence along the way. Take courses, climb with people who know what they are doing and have the willingness and skills to teach. But above all, get out there. You won't know until you go :)

Are you going to climb again to set a new record?

not on purpose! My objective is to raise awareness and $$ for Alzheimer's research. If I set a record as an old man climbing mountains, it will be by accident :)

It's nice to know the oldest man to ever summit the most dangerous mountain in the world did it on my birthday! You're a badass.

Question, how much actual vertical climbing was involved on the route you took and how much hiking?

the trek to K2 Base Camp was 80 miles. But the climb of K2 proper was 100% climbing at angles of 40 to 70 degrees mostly on rock. Very different than Everest.

the oldest man to ever summit the most dangerous mountain in the world

He's the oldest American to have summited K2. Not to downsize his accomplishment, but it is important to note.

Yes, I mention this in my intro. Reddit made the title as "oldest to summit..." The oldest to summit K2 is Soria Fontán at the age of 65 in 2004.

i'm guessing you climb with other people, if so how do you find yourself holding up again some of the younger climbers?

I stay within eyesight :) I was arriving within 20 minutes of each camp on K2.

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We summited around 8:00AM after leaving Camp4 at 10:30PM. The Black Pyramid was the most sustained technical climbing but the traverse above the Bottleneck was hair raising. House's Chimney was not as bad as I had heard.

Don't really know too much about K2 as I'm not a mountaineer but I am interested in what you thought about Nepal and the hiking in the area. I've been wanting to do an Everest base camp trip for a few years now, and wonder what the non-mountaineering part is like. How long were you there for?

K2 is in Pakistan. But trekking in Nepal is a life changing event imho. That's what got me into the high mountains was a trek to everest Base camp in 1997. If you get a chance, jump on it!

As a budding adventure photographer I find it increasingly difficult to carry professional equipment up a fast-n-light ascent. Moreso having to muddle around with settings while utterly exhausted. What simple, lightweight, dependable camera would you prefer for summit photos?

I used to take Nikon DSLR on the trek and Canon G series on the climb. For K2, I used a Canon SX600 HS and was very pleased with both stills and video.

I love mountains and I have a grandmother who also has alzheimers and I love what you're doing. How did you first start out climbing? Did you take any classes or anything at first or did you jump right into it?

I started with a guided trip on Mont Blanc then a trek to Everest Base Camp. After that I hired guides for big climbs (Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, etc..) and found qualified friends to help me learn the basics of rock and ice climbing and took it from there.

What made you decide to start climbing at 38? Most people I know that climb seem to have been doing it since a young age.

I've never climbed anything in my life and I'm in my late 20s, so I'd be interested in your decision making process that led you to start climbing at 38.

I always had a love of the outdoors but focused on my career for a long time. While living in Europe in the mid 1990's, I saw how they did a better job of work/life balance and changed my philosophy. Yes, it hurt my career but made my life better to spend more time in the mountains :)

Alan, can you tell me how it was for you passing the bodies of deceased climbers on Everest? How did it affect you?

I never saw any dead bodies on my 4 trips to Everest.

Do you have any thoughts on the commercialization of Everest?

Everest has always been commercial. First funded by national teams (Swiss, British, American) now by private companies.

Today the model is both good and bad. It opens the highest mountain on earth to those who are qualified but would never get a chance with a national team and at the same time, it allows those who are grossly unqualified to be there. Both amateurs and professionals from clients to guides to Sherpas have all died on Everest.

In the end , I believe mountains are for everyone, but each person must accept personal responsibility for their climb, come with the proper experience, training and attitude and not assume someone else will take care of them under any circumstances.

In the end , I believe mountains are for everyone, but each person must accept personal responsibility for their climb, come with the proper experience, training and attitude and not assume someone else will take care of them under any circumstances.

In the past few years there have been a lot of stories in my home country (Scotland) of underqualified people dying doing climbs that aren't even half as bad as the ones you have managed.

Every time I just shake my head. I feel bad for them and their families but having done a few myself I have to wonder what was going through their heads when they decided to do this without knowing what was involved.

Yes, I agree. In some cases, "guides" were willing to take their money with no consideration of their skills. In other cases, the clients was simply too insistent to deter - this is more of a cultural difference than anything else. And sometimes, a client will misrepresent their experience in order to get on an expedition. Finally, some of deaths are people feeling over confident, or lacked the true understanding of how dangerous these big mountains really are and climb in blissful ignorance - and pay for with their life.

All that said, in my observations over the years are that 90% of the people on Everest, etc. understand where they are, the risks and come prepared. They climb, summit or not due to other factors, primarily weather, and return home feeling good about their experience.

My main point is that there are no regulations for who can be a guide on Everest, or who can put up a website offering an Everest, or K2 or any climb. There are certifications like the AMGA/IFMGA, but it is expensive and takes a long time to obtain these credentials and they are for individuals, not companies.

So it is buyer/climber beware and current references, both good and bad) are required before signing up.

I know this sounds kind of morbid, but is it true on Everest you pass many of the bodies of unsuccessful climbers? If true how does this affect your mental state while making your attempt?

I have never seen any dead bodies on my 4 Everest climbs from the Nepal side. I have had teammates die on expeditions and help bury them on the mountain. Deaths bring the danger into focus. Some people will quit, others will continue. I've always said if I die on a climb, I want to be left on the mountain, preferably out of sight as in a deep crevasse or under rocks. And I want my teammates to continue the climb and if they summit, say a couple of words for me up there.

Late to the AMA, but I just wanted to say that you're an inspiration to a lot of people. I've been reinvigorated while reading this AMA and hearing your interview on Mtn Meister. I'm 35 and will be attempting my first true summit attempt on Rainier in less than two months. It seems that this sport is dominated by the young - your presence is reassuring to those who've been working for twenty years, but long for the life above treeline. Thank you. Question to satisfy the mods: leash or no leash for non-technical ice axes?

Thanks. I wish I had started earlier so that I would have had more experiences but am pleased I've been able to do as much as I have over the past 20 years.

I only use leashes in technical situations that if I drop an axe, I die :) For non technical, like snow slopes, etc, I have it clipped to my harness more so to give me the freedom to let go of it if I need to use both hands, like getting something out of my pack for example. Don;t have to worry about it sliding down the hill.

Have fun on Ranier, it's a great climb with a lot of "stuff".

As a young adult with a similar goal of summiting one of the world's highest mountains, how can one start now to be able to do that one day? Especially physically and financially speaking.

Start by learning the basics: rock, ice, winter skills and gradually climb larger, more difficult mountains as your skills and resources allow. As for money, all I can tell you is what I did: goo college education, good job and then made climbing a priority by not spending money on new cars every few years, or extravagant luxuries.

What is your opinion on leaving bodies on the mountain?

That is what I would want and what most of my teammates have said in the past. It is often not what the families want however.

I have "buried" teammates in deep crevasses, out of sight and in a dignified ceremony with respect.

What are your favourite mountaineering books? (Including technical manuals)

Freedom of the Hills, The Ledge, The Climb, and No Shortcuts to the Top.

What sized pack did you use for your climb? Congrats on the send!

70L. Thanks.

What is your training like for climbing? Were you an athlete before taking up mountain climbing? Do you have any genetic gifts that have made you preternaturally good at climbing e.g. high V02 max?

I try to stay at a high level of basic fitness thus requiring only tuning before each climb. But in general it is the same process each time. Living in Colorado, I get out 3X a week with long days (12 hours), short, fast days and days with a heavy pack.

I am not gifted by any definition :) I had my Vo2 max tested a few years ago and it was 44.

Hi Alan! Just wanted to say hi. I've been a SummitPoster forever, and you were very kind to give me some climbing advice about 10 years ago. I've since gone on to climb all around the world. I was so happy to see your AMA and all the things you've accomplished. Cheers?

Thanks!! Climb On!

How did you balance work with climbing? I too am working in tech and often find myself bored and restless with an 8-5 desk job, even though the company I work for is exciting and I believe in the product. Did you ever feel restless behind a desk? If so, how did you handle that? Thanks!

Absolutely. I was lucky to work at a time when you could carry over vacation so during my work-obsessed phase, I accumulated a lot of vacation that I could use it for long climbs - not great for my career, but wonderful for my climbing!

However, I had demanding jobs that required a lot of travel and sitting in endless meetings in windowless conference rooms looking at Power Point slides!!

So when the weekend and a holiday came, I spent them climbing, building skills and experience. I other words, I lived for those times. But without my job, I couldn't pay for the trips, so balance was the key: work hard, play hard.

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no

Did you die on the mountain?

Not that I'm aware of :)