IamA biker from India who just completed a 30000km, 7 month motorcycle tour through every state in India. AMA!

Why did you choose to do this?

A lot of things.. boredom, figuring out myself, travel the country. I mean I can't point a finger at one thing.. even when I started I was trying too hard to figure out why was I doing this.. I guess thats y my fb page is called 'The Clueless Rider' :)

figuring out myself

Do you think the trip has changed you substantially?

Changed yes a bit but nothing very drastic.. But I think I understand myself better and it helps resolve a lot of things that bothered me.. internally yes it has changed me although outwardly it may not look so evident..

Firstly congratulations for completing this phenomenal tour!

I have few simple questions: 1. How many times did you poop on the roadside? 2. Did u ever get laid during the trip? 3. What is your worst memory/experience from this trip? 4. If you did were to do this trip once more, which state in India would you skip altogether?

hahaha.. your questions are simple but they are the hardest to answer.. lol But here are the answers Ques 1: Twice Ques 2: Zero. Although I did have chance once. But I am not into men that way :) Ques 3: I really can't think of a very bad memory. I mean I had an accident once and I was not very amused at that time but I always drilled it into my head that the worst things make up for the best stories once you are done with it.. So now those are the best stories I have.. Ques4: I am not a very finicky person and on a motorcycle people are very nice to you. Although it does get irritating sometimes as Indians are friendly but they lack a sense of privacy. But you get used to it after a while.. So I don think I'll be skipping a whole state.. there may be parts that I may skip..

What would you say was the coolest experience you had while on the trip?

Well I slept under a truck with truck drivers near Silchar on the side of the road. Its one of the coolest I can think of. That morning my motorcycle had to be trucked because the clutch plates were burnt and it refused to move. I kind of spent the whole day with these guys. They made lunch for me and stayed with me till my bike got fixed and in the night I thought I'll just camp with them.. So we drank and slept on the roadside.. I always remember this incident now and then..

Would you do it again if you had the chance?

I would love to.. Actually I think about doing the same route again when I am 60ish to see how my outlook changed.. but ya I don't know if I would :)

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Another one just popped up in my head and I would.be thrilled if you answered this one too. Now India is a very big place with many different cultures. Did this hinder you at all during the trip? Which area which you say had the best food? Culture?

Well I speak Hindi, English & Malayalam quite fluently and I could communicate with these in most parts of the country. Even Nepal and Bhutan you can get through with Hindi. And I like to believe when you are in a motorcycle because you tend to impress the other person you can overcome these issues. So I never faced a problem As for food I am not a big foodie.. I only eat to live most of the times and only gorge sometimes. I am more into non veg food.. SO I love food in Bhutan, Nagaland, the northeast more or less and Kerala for sure..

I'm Indian, and lived there until I was 18. I'd love to go back and do something similar, but I'm skeptical about whether I'd have as good a time as a solo female traveller. Are there any places that you'd recommend I visit, or any that I should avoid?

Ahh as much as I hate it I can never say this very confidently to a female traveller. As I might have mentioned Indians are friendly but have very little sense of privacy. So it does get irritating sometimes. As a man I can ignore it. If you are planning on a motorcycle I don know but if you are using public transport you can do most places but be just a little careful with timings. I really believe northeast is a safe place for females. The hills have very nice people. So across the Himalayas should never be a problem

What was your learning from the trip ?

Number 1: The world is a much nicer place than what its generally given credit for

NUmber 2 : More than love, the world I think needs a sense of humour :)

The question is: do women now go out with you?

Sadly no.. With my looks and intellect its not hard to be turned down.. :)

Whats the most beautiful stretch and the most dangerous one?

Did you do the Mughal Road In Kashmir? How is Kashmir- Ladhakh Road?

The road from Srinagar to Leh is very beautiful. Another most beautiful and the most dangerous that I felt was the road to Tawang from Guwahati.. There is a stretch of road where the wheels of your bike just sink in the mud completely and you have no option but to accelerate. Going uphill is still ok as you are not going very fast and even though your bike is wobbling you still have some control. And coming bachk from Tawang you have to take the same stretch again and while going downhill your bikes moves like a raft in a rapid. Basically I had no control and it was just luck and not skill that ensured I did not fall of the bike. I am just ensuring that my nike is on the side of the cliff and not the valley :)

Oh I am not sure what Mughal Road refers to. but ya if its that road encircling the Dal lake yes I did ride across that stretch. Its just amazing..

Since anyone hasn't asked this yet, how did you convince your parents man?

Haha.. well its deft handling I would say. When I quit my job My dad was a bit concerned about the fact that I need to get married and all. I was like I need to work for sometime, save money do this trip and then only think of marriage. So another 2 years or so no thoughts of marriage.. Dad then tells me to take the money from him, do the trip now and then be the normal kid that every Dad aspires his children to be.. SO yes that's how its done :)

But yes my parents are a lot more cool than what I thought of them. and they allow me to do things that I really really want to do.. Ofcourse I had to call them everyday but that's about it..

What type of bike do you ride?

Its a Royal Enfield Thunderbird, 350 cc. 2006 model..

What kind of cultural differences you found more astonishing in your journey?

Astonishing I don't know.. I mean cultures don't change abruptly.. When your passing by you observe gradual changes. But once you come back and think about your trip then you realize how very different people who are say separated by some 1000 Kms are. And its just mind boggling..

Best Food, Dhaba and local drink, please.

Not much of a foodie but yes I loved Ema Datshe (Chillies in yak cheese) in Bhutan.. I used to have rice, Ema Datshe and some non veg curry three times a day in Bhutan.. As for a Dhaba.. I remember two Dhabas for the food.. One was some 250 Kms before Bhopal on the Jabalpur Bhopal road and one was some 50 Kms from Nagpur on the Nagpur Raipur road. But service in Dhabas specially in the north and central India make up for everything. I mean you can sleep for sometime, in some dhabas take a bath also if you like without even ordering anything from the place.. I loved the rice beer in Assam that I got on the way to Majauli Island.. :)

What do your parents do?

My father was an Officer in the Indian Army and my mother was pretty much a homemaker for most parts of her life. He is retired now and now they live peacefully in my ancestral village in Kerala.. But I guess what they do most is worry about me :)

Dude so you're basically Forrest Gump on wheels. Great going. What was the funniest incident that happened on ur trip?

Oh thank you.. I like to believe it too :) Oh there was this time I hardly slept in the night at some disgusting lodge in Goalpara, Assam. SO I started at 3:30 in the morning and by 5:30 in the morning I am very sleepy and I find a Dhaba and sleep on the cot there telling the Dhaba guy to wake me up at 8 with aloo paratha for breakfast so that I get some rest and I continue. But when I wake up its past 11 and I ask the dhaba guy that why didn't you wake me up. And he's like "Sir I was out of potatoes so i couldn't make aloo paratha" and I was at a loss on how to react :)

What would you say was the most beautiful/unforgettable sight?

Ahh I was going to Gangtok from Darjeeling and I was not taking the normal route. I was taking a slightly longer route that goes between tea gardens and all. So I was a passing through this village and there was this very pretty woman on the other side of the road. She was obviously curious and she was shy too. When curiosity and shyness are in the perfect proportion you get a perfect very cute smile. Its the kind of smile that will make anyone's day. I smiled back and her smile grew bigger. I was feeling so good inside.. I mean every now and then whenever I was riding I remember that sight. I still remember that face.. Men will be men after all :)

Nice. How did you plan? What things did you take with you ? And you did the trip out of boredom... is that real, mate? :D

And what were the expenses? No issues from traffic police? Which place's people are worst (we all know rural people would be best from your experience ?)

Edit: Where did you get inspiration from ? Jim Rogers is a famous guy who went around the world twice - once in 1989 and next in 1999 before world travel was cool.

Yes boredom and somewhere the need to figure myself out.. No planning.. I mean I did plan a few things but max I planned is for 4 or 5 days in advance.. I feel if you plan more it seems more difficult.. I have done short 1400 Km ride before so I knew.. I carried clothes.. bike spare parts, airpump etc.. thats about it.. camera and memory cards..

My expenses were under Rs 3,00,000. Absolutely no issues from police.. I mean everyone is kind of impressed with a man riding with luggage on a motorcycle.. they were actually helpful.. And people were really nice.. I mean I had a few sour experiences but nothing that bad that it deserves a mention.. And of course lesser the population, sweeter the people..

I guess I was inspired by P.G.Tenzing. He was an ex IAS officer from Sikkim in the Kerala cadre who did a six seven month India motorcycle trip all alone. He has written a book called 'Don't ask an old bloke for directions'. Sadly he is no more now..

When you decided I'm going to take a 30,000 km motorcycle tour across every state in India, who did you tell first?

I don know there was this random guy waiting for a bus near Brigade road in Bangalore. He was some 5 feet 8 inches tall and he was wearing a red colored shirt.. hahaha..

I used to talk about it to my friends in Bangalore. Initially when I told them it was not an all India thing I was planning. But then later I thought of an all India thing and ya I told them only about it. I think I told them after I was drunk.. To be fair I think all that alcohol consumption also encouraged me for the trip..

what is your over all out look of india, is is worse/better than imagined? Also what was living conditions like throughout?

I have always loved this country and I find it much better than what I imagined. Yes there is poverty in some parts that really saddens you. And the filth in some parts disgust you. Also there are parts where infrastructure may be bad but the people seem well fed..Himalayan belt. The South seems alright. The North too looks alright in terms of being fed and all. But the economic disparity is something that worries me in a lot of parts of India

Approximately how many people honked their horn at you during your trip? :P I spent a month in Northern / Western India (only a couple of days of riding sadly), and I would love to do an actual riding trip one day. What area / province would your recommend if a person only had 1 month to ride? I loved Rajasthan

23476 people honked their horn at me during the trip.. hahaha.. I am more of a hills person and maybe I am biased. BUt if I were to suggest I would say go to Ladakh via Srinagar and come back to Shimla taking the spiti valley route. I had plans to take the Spiti valley route but couldn't as I had an accident and had to truck my bike in the Manali route. But I have been to some parts in that valley in a bus n all and its beautiful. Another one that I will suggest is Start from Darjeeling, Enter Bhutan from Phuntshooling and exit from Samjhonkar near Guwahati and then head to Tawang.. It will be just brilliant..

Hey , George.A fellow keralite here.Just wanted to say a Hi

Hello.. :)

I have no question but WOW. Congrats man!

Thank you.. :)

You're welcome! I've always wanted to backpack and just travel as well, but somethings have always held me back.

Its just a leap of faith. Do a small solo trip once of maybe a week or 10 days and then you will keep on doing it again and again..

I never rode a mountain pass. How was it climbing and descending the roads up in the north and north east? I've travelled via cabs and buses and they were pretty nerve whacking.

Some Mountain passes are scary but you feel so good after doing them.. I mean you get more confident even arrogant sometimes about your riding skills after that :) But frankly I would be more scared in cabs and buses because in 2 wheels you still be a safe distance away from the side of the steep valley. In 4 wheels it feels too close for comfort..

Do you have pictures of the trip? I checked on you blog, but seems it is all text

Yes the blog is only text. Check for pics in my facebook page. I don't think I am allowed to post fb links here but search for 'The Clueless Rider' on facebook.. the page has all the pics.. you might have to go Album by Album though..

Where did you had the best food and what was it?

In Bhutan.. There is this dish called Ema Datshe. Its Chillies cooked in yak cheese gravy. Its the right kind of spicy. I used to have rice, Ema Datshe and some non veg curry for all three meals in a day..

Where abouts did you buy the bike? New or second hand?

I'd like to do a similar trip... well, I'd love to go overland from India towards Europe (ambitious I know!) and think starting in Nepal or India on an Enfield would be great.

Final couple of questions - I'm guessing based on your route, you haven't needed a Carnet/CDP? And have you had any issues in border areas (particularly Burma?)

Looks like you had an awesome trip, very envious mate I will go through your blog when I have more time!

Its a bike I had for 7 years now.. I bought a new piece in 2006. Its an Enfield Thunderbird 350cc.. I got it serviced properly with new parts and all.. Burma I only went to one border town called Tamu. Till Tamu its ok for Indian citizens. You pay a Rs 10 ticket and cross till there.. but I have heard Burma restricts tourism a lot. So I am not really sure if you will be allowed in the interiors.

I am not really sure if you are Indian but in Nepal Indians do not need a visa. and you can get in without passport and all. Although if you are getting a vehicle in then you need to pay some INR 70 per day for the vehicle. Bhutan is also easy to get in. Do check out my blog entry for Bhutan for details. But if you are not Indian Bhutan would be a little difficult..

And yes the more ambitious the more fun it is :)

Ah, I take it you're Indian? I didn't realise that! I wish I had the ambition to explore my own country to the extreme you have (I am Australian).

The reason I am thinking about starting in India is really, I'm going to give it a go in SE Asia first - Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, but after that I can't keep heading east by land (Burma is, as you say, restrictive, and China is costly to ride through), so my plan was to fly over into India and from there I believe it's possible to travel strictly overland (though Pakistan and Iran could be problematic, so I'm open to ideas anyone!).

Thank you for your info and the inspiration. I've had a quick skim of your blog and it looks very informative, I'll bookmark for the Indian leg of my journey (which is probably going to be a long time, since it seems there is no shortage of things to do!).

Oh I recently met a German couple who traveled from Germany to India in their caravan. So they started from Germany then into Georgia from Europe somewhere, then Kazhakstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tibet, Nepal and into India.. So maybe thats a route you could try to.. If I can get through their blog or travelogue or something, I'll post it here..

After doing this what do you plan to do next?

I am just resting now.. I would love to write a book on this but I am not really sure how that will turn up.. :) and I guess I will have to start working also. A man needs to earn his living :)

What kept you going ?

Well frankly when I started I made this facebook page about my trip. So that motivated me. I mean when you tell it to a lot of people and you don't do it you might end up as the butt of all jokes.. haha.. But you know you meet a lot of people on the way who say such nice things about you when they come to know your story. SO somewhere I guess you feel you need to do it for all those people who have been nice to you because of the trip.. You feel a sense of responsibility. A lot of times I did it for the people and not not for myself..

George can you please answer my question. If you had to purchase a moped scooter, which would it be?

I would rather kill myself.. hahahha.. naa I love that new vespa scooter pretty much.. Love those colours.. I would go for that I guess

Which was your favourite state, solid, liquid or gas?

An inebriated state..

[deleted]

I am 29.. I guess old enough to start acting more responsible now :)

Any tips on learning a new language since you're able to speak three? I'm in my 20s, so I'm wondering if I'm screwed to just knowing English :/

Not good with languages. Three I know because I was exposed to these three languages from childhood.. Well there have been places (very few though) where these three languages did not work for me and I communicated in signs. It was a lot of fun.

Just knowing English is alright.. Obviously it would be easier if you knew more but then it will be more fun.. Just have a sense of humour.. Doesn't even matter if its bad when the other guys don't speak the language.. :)

How do you plan your rest so as not to get fatigued by continuous riding? Also, did you have a riding buddy or did this all by yourself? Where did you find best roads/infrastructure/people/beauty?

I was doing it alone so I did not have to plan for a lot of things.. When I am tired I stop.. Generally its in some 40 min or an hour but no fixed time frame.. Sometimes I have ridden continuously for 4 hours also I guess..

Most of the highways in the country are good. The best ones would be I think Rajasthan, Maharashtra, Gujarat, TamilNadu, Andhra.. very frankly the highways are good throughout.

I tell on ething to people. In plain areas roads are better and in the hilly areas people are better. People are very nice in Sikkim, Darjelling, Bhutan, Nepal. Ladakh, Northeast basically the Himalayan stretch. BHutan somehow is one place where the beauty just mesmerized me. KAshmir valley , Ladakh, Chattisgarh for that matter.. I am more of a hills person.. So yes I am slightly biased..

How many times did you get diarea?

twice but thankfully not very severe.. :)

Dang, and here I thought I was hot stuff for riding from Florida to Oregon.

I am sorry.. never my intention.. hahaha..

In Ladakh I remember I was the star in the hotel where I was staying until two guys from Germany came in one BMW mobike with a side car fitted. Apparently they were on the road for 18 months. Sadly I couldn't meet them cos they hired Enfield and left to roam around Ladakh early on emorning and that was the day I wolke up quite late.. And theh the hotel guy was only talking about them the whole time.. Nothing about me.. :)

I'm late to this but thought I'd chime in after reading some of your comments

You mention you have girl trouble. I think part of your problem is that you're self-deprecating and not confident in yourself. Be proud of your journey. Exaggerate things every now and again. You did something awesome but it comes off as "I had nothing better to do". This was a boring read, and it could've been much cooler.

hey sorry I am not very regular in reddit. I like being self depreciating. I do not like to take myself seriously. Somewhere in the trip it became very personal to me. But then I would be lying if I said I do not like the attention. So I go through a lot of ethical dilemma when I am discussing about my trip. The girl trouble part is just my brand of humour. People who know me get that. and trust me, I don't lack confidence. I just have higher standards :) but yes I get your point as I don't feel like opening up much. I do plan to write a book on it and from my blogs and all this is what people tell me that I need to open up much more. So the time I feel I am ready to open up more, is the time I'll start with the book. But thanks for the feedback. It does help in some ways :)

Why did you decide to go on this trip around India?

A lot of things.. boredom, figuring out myself, travel the country. I mean I can't point a finger at one thing.. even when I started I was trying too hard to figure out why was I doing this.. I guess thats y my fb page is called 'The Clueless Rider' :)

What are your thoughts on Bajaj?

As stupid as it sounds I am not really that much into other motorcycles.. I just love an Enfield.. I mean I'll have a look when a fancy bike goes by but I am content with an Enfield. But I learnt riding a motorcycle on a Pulsar. And I love the pulsar too..

I love the old vintage look and design of the Indian Enfields.

I am Australian and wanted to buy one from the factory in Chennai and ride it home...

Across India, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Australia.

But I haven't had the time yet.

One day maybe...

Hopefully you do :)

Congrats my friend :) this is freaking awesome! And since this is an AMA, here's a question for you. Did you carry any novels to pass time? Or the days were better spent looking at the scenery?

Hey.. :) I did carry one.. More into non fiction. It was a trip where I just thought I'll relax and do whatever I feel like.. there were places (like in Thimpu )where i spent a lot of time going to coffee shops and reading books.. and on the way I did buy some books that I used to read at night in my hotel room..

Did you have many close calls on the roads? I was in India for a couple of months last year and was amazed at some of the stuff I saw (like an articulated lorry coming straight towards us on the wrong side of a dual carriageway). I guess it makes it a much more exciting country to ride a bike in though.

Thankfully not.. I had an accident once but that was really my stupidity and nothing else.. I guess I am used to the chaos and disorder so I anticipate and am more careful.. Yes depending on your mood you can term it frustrating or exciting :)

Do you feel closer to Che Guevara and his views on the world after the tour them you did before the tour.

I really have to read more on his views to answer that but ya I am surely tempted to buy a Che Guevara printed T shirt now.. :)

He has a book on his Motorcycle tour, it is called: "Che Guevara The Motorcycle Diaries"

I have seen the movie.. not read the book.. I mean I have read about him and his views.. but I just think I don't know enough to have an opinion.. but I do like the guy..

Thanks for doing this George.

Which state's cuisine did you enjoy best?

Where did the authorities give you the most trouble?

What, if anything, did you get away with for being a biker that others would've been screwed for?

And lastly Bombay, Delhi or namma Bangalore?

Not a big foodie and as I am from Kerala I love the food here.. I mean its a paradise for non vegetarians. Although Bhutan is not a state in our country I must say I loved the food there.. The most trouble I had with authorities was in Sanauli (Nepal border) on the Indian side. To be honest I had a slight documentation problem but the officials on the Nepalese side were sweet enough to let me in..

The above mentioned thing might have been something I might have been screwed for if I wasn't on a motorcycle. Also in the northeast states I used to go get my permits in govt offices wearing my riding gear.. and they did things quickly for me. Sometimes even on weekends when they are closed (in Silchar for Mizoram permits) I get the permits without greasing palms or anything.. Well Delhi is always fun for me as I have a lot of friends there and nothing beats the weather in Bangalore but I have always had a soft corner for Bombay.. So I like the three places but if I had to order them it will be Bombay, Bangalore, Delhi..

What needs to change most in India?

I think it needs to be more women friendly and there ought to be more respect for individualism rather than a collectivism. Also women need to show more interest in going out with men who ride across India on motorcycles :)

Cheers mate!

Thank you :)

I am an 18 year old guy who lived in India until the age of 9 and then moved to UK. I really love going to visit India and travelling around. I plan on doing a trip like you have done yourself.

I want to do a trip like the one you have done, however I feel like I won't be getting the feel of things - so to say - I am a very shy person when it comes to talking to people and talking to anyone for that matter. Will you give me any tips on how to just get used to new cultures and start up conversations with people who are very different to you?

^{I don't know if this made any sense.. I hope you kind of understand where I am coming from}

yes I do.. And don't call yourself shy.. Call yourself reserved. Its a cooler word :) And I don't go about starting conversations with people. At 18 I called myself shy now I call myself reserved. With a motorcycle that is strapped with luggage you tend to impress people wherever you go and mostly people would end up striking a conversation with you. And being shy is a better thing as you would end up listening more than talking. SO if anything I think you will have a better feel of things than the talkative guy next door :)

How crowded is India? Can you travel for miles without seeing a person?

Only if you blindfold yourself.. hahaha.. It is generally crowded. But the hills are sparsely populated areas so more fun to ride around. And as surprising that it may seem Ladakh is an area where you would not see a single person for miles at a stretch. Even Arunachal for that matter. Also in the plains once you are out of the city you find fewer people..

What were some of the most striking economic/architectural differences you saw during your trip?

Any "sudden differences" you noticed (e.g. city features that simply vanished or showed up between one town and the next)?

The most striking was when I was travelling from the north to the south of West Bengal to reach Calcutta.. The roads were under construction at some parts and generally very bad till some 100 metres from the Calcutta airport.. and then suddenly the roads were beautiful and everything was lit up.. It was too sudden for me.

And generally in India the rural urban divide is quite prominent when you ride across. Kerala is probably the only state where it is nonexistant.. I mean there's a small town every 10 kms in kerala between two big cities.. Riding is such a hassle here cos of that..

That's awesome. Have you thought about long tours anywhere else? (America, somewhere in Europe, etc.) Seems like if you could handle 30,000 km, you could have a lot of fun in other places.

Of course I have thought about it and would love to do it too.. but right know no but if I have an opportunity after a while I'll take it..

How does it feel to have a 7 month orgasm?

Well to be fair its irritating and frustrating and plain boring a lot of times.. But at the end when you look back its just unforgettable.. Yes there are a lot of times it feels orgasmic too and who doesn't like an orgasm and specially if its multiple :)

Many travellers do not tell this usually. Kudos to you.... Sometimes it is plain boring and frustrating and will keep asking 'why am I doing this?' but still, will go on... and the travel gets most orgasmic when it becomes 'memory' isn't it?

Super envy you buddy...

Yes exactly.. there are a lot of times you would think 'Why the hell am I doing this. I should just finish this and go back. and then in a day or two you reach a new place or some nice experience and suddenly you are happy you did not quit.. And actually when it becomes a memory thats when it becomes truly orgasmic..