longboardsurfing

Love hearing that you surf! I've always considered myself lucky that I began surfing 50 years ago, nothing in life quite like it. How did you start and where is your favorite break?

I applaud anyone who begins surfing at any age. I was lucky to have found it as a 10 year old, even though my parents thought I would end up living under a pier somewhere. The most soulful people I know are water people. Ever surf at Sano? Great spot, fun at any size and a mellow vibe.

The beauty of surfing, regardless of the size of the wave if you're on the right board you still get that wonderful ride. Spent much time in Hawaii?