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I hiked the Camino de Santiago, aka the Way of Saint James. AMA!
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stormelemental133 karma
Nope. They filmed in 2009 and I was there 2012. After coming home we found out about the movie and watched it. It was pretty cool watching the different scenes and going, 'Remember that?!' and 'Wait... that's not what it's like!'
stormelemental133 karma
Now I can't stop singing that song in my head. :)
Here's a map of different routes. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/78/Stjacquescompostelle1.png Any/all of these are part of the pilgrimage, but generally the Camino is that thick line in northern Spain. It runs from the French side of the to the city of Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain. This route is called the French Way, very original name, and is the route most people take.
apostle_s6 karma
Are you Catholic and if so, did you have a specific prayer intention while walking the Way?
Also, did you see them swing the Botafumeiro in the cathedral?
On a side note, I'm sure the folks at /r/catholicism would be interested in the story. Thanks!
stormelemental132 karma
Thanks. It'll post a note over there.
I'm not Catholic, though I wished I was during the trip. I'm sure it would have made it much cooler/meaningful.
Yes. We waited until we could get to a service where they would be using it. It's kind of unnerving seeing is swing about. Cool, but I could help thinking about the rope, which is super thick, snapping and suddenly it's bowling for pilgrims.
apostle_s7 karma
I'm not Catholic, though I wished I was during the trip.
We're always hiring! We have beer.
lejefferson4 karma
Where's your seashell!?!? I went to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Walking up the steps realizing the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who had gone up them was an amazing thing. Beautiful. What was it like reaching it after all that way. Any religious or spiritual experiences to speak of? Did you have any sketchy experiences along the way?
stormelemental132 karma
It's at my parent's house where it won't get broken, unlike my college apartment.
No sketchy experiences.
Weirdly, my most personal/spiritual experiences were earlier in the journey, especially in the smaller churches. Seeing a village that's never had more than a few hundred people built around a romanesque church able to fit the whole town inside. Thinking about the faith required to build something like that. The idea of generations, possibly back to the crusades, walking through those doors to worship and fellowship was very moving. Seeing the gem encrusted gold cross on the alter of a place that has never been rich, yet always kept this treasure out in the open was... special.
therealmyself4 karma
I am hiking the Camino later this year.
How much training did you do beforehand?
Did you have problems with blisters? Any tips to deal with them?
I have heard since it is becoming more popular the hostels are filling up early. Will I have problems getting a bed for the night? I am going April/May so it may be quieter than the summer months.
Anything you wish you had packed but didn't? Anything I should pack that most don't consider?
stormelemental132 karma
Good for you! Unfortunately, I didn't do any training at all before starting. School was super busy and I flew out right when the term ended, so I was in full winter blob mode. The Camino isn't the sort of thing you need to build up to. It's helpful if you do, but unlike hiking in the US, there is lots of support along the way and the trail deliberately takes the easiest route.
It's kind of weird actually at the beginning. Instead of going up and over the ridge, the Camino gently meanders alongside to a gap and slips through.
I did not have problems with blisters. Best tips for them, change your socks. There is plenty of water along the trail, so wash your socks after every use and change them out during the day. Also, buy a good pair of shoes and break them in before hand. You're already paying for a $1200+ plane ticket plus everything else, invest in some good shoes. The breaking in is important. It takes a while for your feet to adjust to the shoes and vice versa. Buy the shoes and do some short day hikes or even just regular walking in them. Also, bring a pair of sandles or slippers so you can take the shoes off and still walk around.
We were there in June/July and always found room, you shouldn't have any trouble.
Yes! Bring anti-chafing stuff. Could be anything, body-glide, vaseline, etc, but bring something to help with that. I'm overweight and my thighs rub. After a day of walking with your sweaty, salty thighs rubbing against each other, you'll be raw and hurting. If it's bad enough you can get infections.
If you've got something that can use wifi, bring it. Internet is available most places and it's helpful to be able to look up weather forecasts and chat with people at home.
Bring a big poncho. It will rain and being able to keep going without your pack or self getting soaked is really nice.
Get a walking stick or trekking poles! They make life so much better. No more sausage fingers, no more slipping, less knee problems. Gifts from the gods.
Bring shoes, not boots. You're not climbing the Rockies, so don't pack like it. You'll spend most of your time on dirt/gravel road, asphalt, cobblestone, and other hard surfaces, so bring footwear that is good for that.
NAKED_NAPKINS3 karma
Why do you hike? Do you do it for health reasons, you just want to explore, maybe a bit of both?
stormelemental134 karma
Both. I hate exercise and hiking is a way of slipping it in under the guise of exploration. I'm really curious, and have to know what's on the other side of the mountain.
For this trip though, curiosity. I'd never been to europe, never seen a real cathedral, never visited a real castle, etc. This was a travesty that needed to be rectified, and I was finally in a position to do it.
stormelemental131 karma
27 days. We could have gone faster or slower, but it takes most people about a month.
300001 karma
That's pretty quick! It took me 34 days. Did you start in St. Jean Pied du Port?
natsws1 karma
What kind of people did you meet on the way? Where did you sleep evey night? Was it expensive?
stormelemental133 karma
Ooo, all kinds of people. And I do mean all kinds. There was Janene, obese lady who was hiking because her boyfriend left her, she lost her job, and life generally sucked. Nice lady and fun to talk to. She was from Paris.
There were the Panzers, group of retired german guys who had a very determined walk/march from one place to the next. It was generally assumed that I was part of the group that had gotten lost.
The Scandis, a very amorphous blob of college students from Denmark, Sweden, and Norway who wandered forward in a quest for beer, sex, and enlightenment, but mostly beer.
Aussie, a retired australian who was walking from Rome to Santiago. His plan was to get there and get blind drunk for three days.
Ron Paul, an american couple wearing Ron Paul 2012 campaign hats and pins. Very spiritual, but not religious. Much fun was had metaphorically poking them with sticks and watching the politics burst forth.
There were many, many more. Overall, didn't meet anyone who was a jerk. People are generally very nice and help each other out, and they come from everywhere.
We slept in the alburgue, pilgrim hostels, every night. Ours ran 3-10 a night with 5 being the median. They are usually dorm-like, so bring earplugs and a light sleeping bag.
As for food, probably about 10€ a day. You can do it for a bit less, but most people spend way more. We didn't buy off the expensive menu when we visited cafes, and used grocery stores when we could. Not drinking also cut down our bill by a lot.
Derped_my_pants1 karma
Seems there is actually a camino de santiago subreddit now? /r/CaminoDeSantiago
stormelemental132 karma
The churches! All the churches! I went into everyone we could find and they were all cool with their own personality. The best were the cathedrals in Burgos, Leon, and Astorga.
The castle in Ponferrada was really cool. We ended up there during a Templar festival they have every year. First Ren Faire experience, also best.
Out on the meseta, the flat plain portion in the middle, there was a really cool hostel in the middle of no where. There was just a little dip between hills and suddenly you're in this surreal spot with a little hive shaped building, trees, green grass, and a spring with water the felt like it was fresh from a glacier. That was super cool
stormelemental131 karma
Have'd to see a shot with the building to be certain, but that definitely looks like the place. Cool! When'd you go?
Binklemania2 karma
I finished on the 31st of May, 2012. Took about 5 weeks and change.
That place was an oasis!
stormelemental132 karma
Oh wow! I did it that year too. June and July though. By the the time we got to the place everything had turned brown/golden.
Binklemania2 karma
Yeah we had a very similar experience, it seems.
I too had a nasty rub on the inside of my thighs. Sometimes it was excruciating.
stormelemental131 karma
Hopefully we have learned from it. :)
I'm curious, what parts of the way did you really enjoy. Myself, I really loved the cathedrals and churches.
Have you done any other long hikes? I haven't yet, but am hoping to do a section of either the PCT or AT once I finish school this april.
Binklemania1 karma
The initial section through the Pyranees was easily my favorite. The fauna and flora was just mind blowing. I also took a lot away from the Architecture.
I am not religious, so it was hit or miss for me in Churches. Mostly I was interested in the history of the building rather than the religious notations.
I have done plenty of day hikes, but never another pilgrimage like the Camino. Would love to go back.
stormelemental132 karma
Now I feel compelled to go back and do that section. I started in Pamplona and so skipped the mountains. :(
Toudou1 karma
Just a quick question, on a scale from 1 to 10, how would you rate the amount of commercializing that is going on along the path?
stormelemental133 karma
This is kind of a hard question. For quite a few centuries during the high medieval period the pilgrimage was one of europe's major transportation routes. Towns and villages popped up solely to support travelers, and the same is still true to an extant today. Several of the places you'll stop through, providing services to the pilgrims is 90%+ of industry there, so it's kind of part of the experience.
Overall, say 5. Some places have signs advertising places to sleep in the next town, and many businesses cater specifically to pilgrims, but it isn't really intrusive. Just don't go into it expecting a wilderness experience.
stormelemental131 karma
I'll get back to you once I have a chance to look at my pack. It's a got a mountain logo on it and 50L capacity, but I can't remember the brand.
Columbia hiking shoes.
A pair of trekking poles so worn you can't see the lettering anymore.
stormelemental131 karma
Now? Berries, but those are expensive so only on special days. Generally, carrot sticks. I eat lots of carrots.
Then, dried figs. They were pretty cheap and fun to munch on.
stormelemental132 karma
Depends on who you ask I guess. I'd describe myself as being moderately religious, but on surveys and such I'm generally categorized as being very religious.
FuckBigots41 karma
Would you say that improved your experience or is it just amazing enough on its own?
stormelemental134 karma
I think it did. Learning about the history of the pilgrimage and seeing the churches, artifacts, and other very tangible manifestations of someone else's faith resonated with me because of my experiences and beliefs, and gave them more meaning than their purely historical or aesthetic value.
However, the Camino is plenty awesome without that. You don't need to be religious to appreciate the beauty of the cathedral of Burgos, or enjoy all of the delicious wines along the route.
stormelemental133 karma
In the works. I have hundreds of pictures from the trip and have been slowly trying to put them together into a album. It's taking a while though.
Here is a picture of our first view of the Burgos Cathedral. http://i.imgur.com/094pBoX.jpg
*Edit. If you'd like pictures of anything or any place in particular, I've probably got one around somewhere, just ask.
AwesomeLandia1 karma
Howdy! I'd really like to hike this trail because I love Spain and I love hiking. I want to know if it is financially feasible for me one day. What did it cost you and your father to hike the trail? What were the biggest expenses?
stormelemental131 karma
Biggest expense was the ticket. ~$1200
Next was food. We spent about 10 euros/day each on food, but most people spend a lot more.
Lodging was about 5 euros/night. If you go for the private/nicer places the prices can jump considerably.
Backpack and other gear was about $150. If you don't have anything, figure around $200-250.
Overall, I'd say you can do it for about $2000 if you are willing to be cheap.
A good idea is to do some research into the Camino and figure out what lifestyle you want during the trip. If you want to eat in cafes and restaurants every meal and enjoy some wine, you could be looking at 50 euros/day pretty easily. That's kind of the suggested budget I've seen in some of the guide books, but that just seems ridiculous to me.
mazbrakin1 karma
I found out about the Camino last year and it's now on my bucket list. Any suggestions/tips for doing it? What time of year did you go?
stormelemental131 karma
I did not have problems with blisters. Best tips for them, change your socks. There is plenty of water along the trail, so wash your socks after every use and change them out during the day. Also, buy a good pair of shoes and break them in before hand. You're already paying for a $1200+ plane ticket plus everything else, invest in some good shoes. The breaking in is important. It takes a while for your feet to adjust to the shoes and vice versa. Buy the shoes and do some short day hikes or even just regular walking in them. Also, bring a pair of sandles or slippers so you can take the shoes off and still walk around.
We were there in June/July and always found room, you shouldn't have any trouble.
Yes! Bring anti-chafing stuff. Could be anything, body-glide, vaseline, etc, but bring something to help with that. I'm overweight and my thighs rub. After a day of walking with your sweaty, salty thighs rubbing against each other, you'll be raw and hurting. If it's bad enough you can get infections.
If you've got something that can use wifi, bring it. Internet is available most places and it's helpful to be able to look up weather forecasts and chat with people at home.
Bring a big poncho. It will rain and being able to keep going without your pack or self getting soaked is really nice.
Get a walking stick or trekking poles! They make life so much better. No more sausage fingers, no more slipping, less knee problems. Gifts from the gods.
Bring shoes, not boots. You're not climbing the Rockies, so don't pack like it. You'll spend most of your time on dirt/gravel road, asphalt, cobblestone, and other hard surfaces, so bring footwear that is good for that.
That's the advice I gave up above, and I hold by it. Good shoes, good socks, and good poles make for happy feet. You want your feet to be happy. Pamper them. Indulge them. Buy them nice things and tell them they are the only ones for you.
Wash your clothes everyday. I sweat a lot and it's nice to get the salt out if you can. As such, bring clothes that can be hand washed and line-dry quickly. Jeans aren't a great choice.
Find someone who speaks spanish and keep them around. You don't need it for services really, but there is tons of historical sites with neat bits of information you'll miss out on if you can't read spanish.
I went June/July. It was busier towards the end as summer got into full swing and we were closer to the end, but never really had any problems with it.
PeachesNSteam1 karma
Late to the party, but I was wondering what you thought of the Meseta. It seems to be challenging for a lot of people. Was it still green in June or had everything already turned brown?
stormelemental132 karma
The parts that weren't irrigated, either naturally or by canals, were quite brown. The meseta is also quite a bit warmer than the rest of the trail. This makes it easy to suffer from heat exhaustion and dehydration.
Myself though, I actually quite liked it. Since it's the part people tend to skip or push through, there's less information about the churches and other things in the area. The trail becomes less crowded and overall it's just a nice change of pace. I recommend it.
stormelemental131 karma
Yes! Weird yeah, but I'm from the western US and I was missing my mountains. Plus, it was cooler than the meseta, which is a big plus for a fat guy like me.
stormelemental132 karma
Around five pounds or so. I slimmed up a bit more than that as my legs put some muscle. I didn't lose quite as much as might be expected, there was a lot of good food along the way, and I thoroughly enjoyed it.
clav11 karma
Did you and your Dad walked together all the time, or did you sometimes split up for a day or a couple of hours and walked alone?
stormelemental132 karma
Mostly we stuck together. Sometimes we'd go for several hours without saying anything, but didn't really separate. One of the big pluses for the trip was getting to spend time together. I'd get my alone time later after he went home and I went to England.
orangejulius1 karma
Hello stormelemental13! I've removed your submission from IAmA. Location-based AMAs go to /r/ILiveIn. or r/travel.
stormelemental131 karma
Oh. Okay.
A truly interesting and unique event. The quintessential example used for this is "I just climbed Mount Everest." It's an activity that doesn't play a central role in someone's life, but is so uncommon that the users would not have experiences of their own to relate to it.
I saw this and thought my experience was appropriate. Is there a way to transfer the AMA or keep using the thread? When I click on the link that I posted in other subs, it takes me to the discussion, but I'm not sure if that works for everyone or just me since I am the creator.
orangejulius1 karma
Maybe I'm not familiar. Did you stay in hotels? Miles hiked per day? Time spent? Did you use motorized transit at all in cities or to get places?
stormelemental131 karma
I spent a night in a hotel in Madrid while waiting for my father to fly in, but otherwise I stayed in albergues, hostels for pilgrims on the trail. These vary between old monasteries run by religious groups that fit half a dozen to shiny new facilities built by the local government that house hundreds in a single gym like room. It is strongly discouraged, and illegal in most places, to camp as you are walking through people's fields and such.
Miles hiked were 17-24 forward along the trail, and usually about half a dozen or so more going off to the side to explore ruins/interesting things.
If I remember correctly we were 27 days on the trail from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. It might have been a few days more or less, but it was right around four weeks.
We used a train to get from Madrid to Pamplona and the city buses once we were in Santiago, but otherwise we walked. Oh, and we did catch a bus on the outskirts of Burgos into the city center. I'd developed a nasty rash/swelling/reaction thing and walking was getting to be mildly excruciating.
It definitely isn't wilderness like the Pacific Crest Trail or anything, but an experience of it's own.
I submitted this here because I thought it was appropriate, but I understand if you disagree. You have to draw the line somewhere.
stormelemental132 karma
Well, it is a fairly unusual experience and people have expressed interest in it before, so I thought to share my experience and answer questions.
stormelemental131 karma
And I am an american. If you live in Nepal, climbing the himalayas isn't that big a deal either. The Nepalese students I've gotten to know all think the hubbub over climbing Everest is silly/weird.
haribohowley25 karma
Did you meet Martin Sheen on The Way?
Edit: Capitalised 'The Way' for comical value
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